Yamauchi outerwear

November 24, 2023

There are only a few days left in the currently ongoing Desertic EXHIBITION.

I'm very happy that everyone was able to see it and that they felt the overwhelming impact of seeing it in real life rather than the photos.

It will be held until the 26th (Sunday), so if you have already seen it, you can repeat it, and if you haven't seen it yet, I would be happy if you could give it a try.

Today, I would like to introduce Yamauchi, who I haven't been able to introduce yet.

There are other products besides the mud-dyed 3-way docking coat that I introduced the other day.

The level of the docking coat is extremely low, but this is also an outerwear made by Yamauchi.

It's getting cold.

I think it's very good.

Yamauchi

Yakseep pile zip jacket

fece material _ COTTON 86%, YAK 14%

lining material _ COTTON 70%, POLYESTER30%

other parts _ COTTON 100%

*With batting

color _ YAK BEIGE (undyed)

size_3,4

First of all, this.

There is a series of pile fabrics from Imabari that Mr. Yamauchi of Yamauchi likes to make.

Although it is called pile, it has a completely different quality from other towels.

There is something called "pile weave".

Imabari is where the fabric is made by this organization.

In terms of blend ratio, it is 86% cotton and 14% yak.

The pile-like loops are made of cotton, and this cotton also has a slightly unique color.

This is the same cotton we used in our guanaco fabric clothes with tilt The authentics, which were made by Yamaei Keori.

This cotton was developed in the United States by Sally Fox and grown by Dorsey Alvarez.

The cotton itself is "brown" and "green".

Brown cotton and green cotton.

I'm fascinated by the unique colors that occur naturally.

And the one that looks soft and fluffy around it is a yak.

The fibers of this "yak" are also undyed.

The depth of the pile structure is not flat, and the combination of multiple colors of the fiber itself, which is not artificial.

It's quite impressive. this.

But, since it's a double-zip blouson, I think it's a piece of clothing that you can wear without any hesitation.

Although it looks like this, it has a unique shape, with the front body and back body not switching at the shoulder line, but the front body extending straight to the back yoke, where the switch can be made.

And there is no switching between the sides.

But as you can see, it doesn't look excessive at all.

At first glance, it looks like a lightweight blouson that could be worn under outerwear in the middle of winter.

In general, a zip-up blouson like this fits into the framework of a light outerwear.

But, this is completely different.

It's extremely outerwear.

It cannot be worn as an inner layer of a coat.

It has a shape that you can wear without any hesitation, but the fabric is strong and has enough padding to keep you warm and warm as an outerwear in the middle of winter.

If you look at the balance of the clothes, the height of the neck, the margins, the thickness of the arms, the overall volume, etc., the finished product is something that is not very similar to other clothes in this genre.

This is a brand that specializes in ultra-high quality sewing, fabrics, and extremely detailed specifications, but I think these clothes have a very unique "scent" of Mr. Yamauchi.

When I saw this zip blouson for the first time, I knew that the person who owned this zip blouson would be able to wear it and use it a lot in the winter.

Especially for those traveling by car.

Additionally, the brand offers three sizes: 2, 3, and 4, but I couldn't imagine a petite person like me wearing this blouson. Somehow.

It's not that it doesn't suit me, but in my mind, I'd say around 170cm to 180cm. A picture of a man came to mind.

Therefore, the sizes available are only 3 and 4.

Lined.

Comes with a pocket that utilizes the back facing and lining.

Of course, there are pockets on the front as well.

But, this blouson...

It's a pile fabric, and the fabric itself has quite a bit of volume, but many of those fabrics tend to expand at the seams and end up on the verge of exploding.

However, even though this fabric is quite puffy, the transition lines in various places are crisp.

The seams visible from the outside do not harm the fabric and coexist beautifully.

The person who sewed this blouson...

"Yoko Yamashita".

I have introduced this person briefly on this blog before, but he is a seamstress whom Mr. Yamauchi of Yamauchi calls the "god of sewing."

This blouson wouldn't have the look and quality it does without Yoko Yamashita sewing it.

The real thing is amazing.

The specifications of the fabric, sewing, and Yamauchi's "scent" balance.

It's a warm and light outerwear that can be worn on holidays, etc., but I don't think there's anything out there that gives off this unique mood.

There are many kinds of clothes that are superficially designed, clothes from brands that are well promoted, etc., but these clothes give off something completely different.

I think it's good. That kind of.

Yamauchi

Hybrid cotton cross mountain coat

fece material 1_ COTTON 100%

face material 2 _ COTTON70%,POLYESTER30%

lining material _ HEMP 100%

*With batting

color _ DARK NAVY × BROWN

size_2,3

And next is this.

A coat with a combination of three types of fabric on the outside.

I think the Yamauchi brand has been around for about 15 years, but before it became the "Yamouchi" brand, it had its predecessor, "Yamoci."

At that time, there were a lot of clothes that had a strong look, but recently there have been a lot of clothes that have the nuances of those days.

The same goes for the overall outline of the blouson I mentioned earlier, as well as the combination of fabrics used in this coat.

As mentioned earlier, this coat is a combination of three types of fabric.

The shoulders and sleeves are made of "salt shrinkage water-repellent stretch cotton" with a strong "salt shrinkage" treatment.

The body is mainly made of "ultra-high density hybrid cotton cloth" in NAVY and BROWN colors.

Yamauchi is involved in sewing and making clothes with detailed designs, but she has also been consistently developing fabrics for many years.

First, let's talk about the "salt shrink water-repellent stretch cotton" that covers the shoulders and sleeves.

As the name suggests, this fabric is water repellent.

This fabric is also unique to a brand that pursues only natural fibers, but the base fabric is subjected to a strong salt shrinking process to shrink the fabric and make it denser.

When this happens, there are no gaps between the threads that make up the fabric, and the threads shrink to their limit, causing the threads that have nowhere to go to fight against each other, creating wrinkles on the surface.

On top of that, a water-repellent finish is applied.

Furthermore, in order to eliminate the unevenness of the fabric, which has become denser and has wrinkles on its surface, the fabric is pounded repeatedly to create a smooth surface.

The resulting fabric has a clear high density, a slight sliminess, strong firmness and stiffness, and a complex expression that looks like it's slightly bumpy from the deep end.

And, combined with it, is a fabric called "ultra-high density hybrid cotton cloth" of NAVY and BROWN.

This fabric is an evolution of the brand's previous shirt fabrics, which have been made using thin threads and the world's most advanced looms at the highest density possible.

Until now, we have made fabrics using thin threads, but by increasing the thickness of the threads, we are now able to create fabrics that are extremely strong and heavy.

As before, by using the world's most advanced cotton fabric loom, which is extremely rare in Japan, we have physically eliminated the gaps between the threads and achieved a completely different level of density. Rather, as the name suggests, it might be easier to say "cross". lol

Nowadays, we make fabrics together with Kuzuri Keori, so we also have materials such as wool, yak, alpaca, and camel, but when Yamauchi first became a brand, it did not use animal fibers. .

In some cases, they used only cotton and linen to create fabrics suited to Japan's spring/summer, autumn/winter climates.

Therefore, there is a lot of potential for cotton.

I think Mr. Yamauchi's own past experience is very useful in this fabric.

But, this coat.

This is the kind of fabric we have continued to develop, but here's where it gets really dangerous. . .

This sewing.

There are no errors at all, and the stitches are sewn at a perfect pitch.

However, there are hidden sewing specifications that other brands cannot follow...

It was also a 3way docking coat...

There is no "reverse stitching". That's what it means.

"Backstitch".

In other words, in order to prevent the sewing thread from fraying, everyone should do things that everyone takes for granted, such as ``going back'' and ``going back'' at the beginning and end of sewing.

However, at Yamauchi, for the clothes that symbolize the collection, he does not perform this "reverse stitching" and uses a method called "thread removal", in which the threads at the beginning and end of the sewing are "pulled from the opposite side (back side) and tied by hand". Do extreme techniques.

The reason is that Mr. Yamauchi doesn't think it looks beautiful when the stitches overlap.

If the stitching is beautiful, the appearance of the tailored clothing will be completely different.

As a brand, we continue to adhere to the idea of ``we want to create beautiful, detailed products.'' We continue to adhere to these specifications.

So, take a good look.

There are no overlapping stitches anywhere at the beginning of each stitch.

This is implemented in a mountain coat that is made up of multiple fabrics and has many parts.

It doesn't matter if it's long distance sewing or short distance sewing.

There is only one stitch everywhere.

However, dangerous things accelerate. . .

As mentioned earlier, this mountain coat is made from three types of fabric.

Each comes in three colors: black, navy, and brown.

Look at the photo carefully again...

Do you understand?

The color of the sewing thread changes depending on the color of the fabric being sewn.

Navy sewing thread on navy hybrid cotton cloth.

Brown sewing thread on brown hybrid cotton cloth.

While performing the process of "thread removal" and tying the sewing threads by hand, he continues to sew with fine stitch work, and on top of that, he changes the color of the sewing threads depending on the area to be sewn.

I might be able to do my best with simple clothes, but this is a mountain coat with a lot of details. lol

The patience of Mr. Yamauchi, who was able to design so thoroughly, and the seamstresses who sew them together is incredible.

In any industry, things tend to become simpler and simpler.

I think this will increase production efficiency and make things run more smoothly.

However, when I want to create something, I don't think that something simple can be good.

That's why I personally really like Yamauchi's clothes and would like to highly rate them.

Even if you look at the world at large, there are very few people who can continue making clothes like this for 15 years.

And this will definitely benefit the person who wears it. I think that's what's so great about Yamauchi's clothes.

This coat is sewn by Narukiyo, who lives in Fukuoka Prefecture.

Seriously, I can't beat it.

At Yamauchi's collection exhibition for the 23AW season, the 3-way docking coat sample was sewn by Mr. Yamauchi himself, and the mountain coat sample was sewn by Narukiyo. "This mountain coat was by far the most difficult one I've had lately."

When I saw this coat, my soul trembled, so I ordered it in sizes 2 and 3.