The clothes of “Yamauchi x CASANOVA&CO x Kuzuri Keori Kogyo” that we have announced so far. This time, the ultra raw material called "Ferreira Mohair", which is said to be the best mohair in the world, is used in an extremely generous amount of 581g, which is the heavy weight of the cloth, and the price is also very high. class stuff. It may be the first time for some of you to actually see ready-made clothes at such a price.
That much.
Well, if you think about it normally, in the framework of "bespoke products", I may not have seen anything with such a price. LOL However, I never want to sell "high-priced items". As I already wrote in this blog, the collection that the brand produces as usual. Other than that, I wanted to create something called “clothes that have a reason to go out of their way to create.” However, in my mind, it is “a means, not an end”. This time, I would like to get a little closer to the ``ultimate goal'' that I clearly set forth in my clothing life at this point in time, through the ``means'' of creating clothes with Mr. Yamauchi of Yamauchi. That is the “purpose” of this time.
However, the "final goal" in me is not something that can be easily achieved immediately, it takes a tremendous amount of time. don't know. But I have no choice but to keep working towards it. In order to get even a little closer to that "final goal", I worked on "Ferreira Mohair", which I had been talking to Mr. Yamauchi for many years. “Purpose” of this time. There are several of these. Perhaps, by writing this kind of thing, I think that there are people who have various opinions, but I have written various things on this blog so far. I think that all work is like that, but actually, it's a hard work in its own way, and there are times when it's quite a bit of a bit of a bit of a bit of a bit of a bit of a bit of a bit of a bit of a bit of a bit of a bit of a bit of a bit. However, as a 'communicator' through clothes, I'm thinking of going in the direction I believe in now. The topic is a little off topic, but the “purpose” of this time. When I wrote it out again in bullet points, there were 18, so I will write the subject.
・I want to convey the fiber "Ferreira Mohair" that I trembled from the bottom of my heart to customers with my own hands.
・I would like to tell you about Mr. Keori Kuzuri, who is difficult to convey just by handling his collection on a daily basis.
・I want you to know Mr. Yamauchi's edgy power that cannot be expressed in Yamauchi's "collection"
・I want to focus on the work of sewing ・I want you to be truly moved by this clothes
These five are the main objectives of this article. So, today, I will write about "sewing workers".
As I told you the other day, there are three types of clothes made by Mr. Yamauchi. Jackets, trousers, coats. I had four seamstresses sew the three pieces of clothing. The jacket is "Naoko Okamoto" and the other. The trousers are “Rie Sano”. The coat is “Kouichi Narukiyo”. The other person who sewed the jacket, not Mr. Okamoto, has various circumstances and cannot be announced on this blog, but as usual, he has a "sewer tag" attached. Please confirm.
Then, I asked each of them questions about what they had been doing and what kind of person they were, and summarized them.
Those who sew on a daily basis may be the ones who directly touch the finished clothes themselves, but they rarely say it openly, so those who sew The voice may be quite rare.
<Jacket Sewing Ms. Naoko Okamoto>
The sewing history so far is 27 years. He is a super veteran with 27 years of experience on this road. 1st class national qualification for women's and children's clothing manufacturing technicians.
This qualification test is a skill test, and it seems that you have to sew a certain number of clothes within a time limit and at a level above a certain level. It seems quite difficult.
Meanwhile, Mr. Okamoto said that the clothes he sewed in this test won the gold medal. Sewing clothes for women is more strict and demanding than for men, but Mr. Okamoto says that he can sew all kinds of women's clothes. In addition to that, there was a time when he sewed jackets of well-known brands for men's clothing. Then, I asked Mr. Okamoto the following questions about the clothes I sewed this time.
Q: Is there anything you would like customers to see in the jacket you sewed?
A: Although it is a basic piece of clothing called a jacket, it shows the quality of the fabric and the quality of the stitching. I sewed it with care to the end. I want you to wear a well-stitched jacket comfortably.
Q: Were there any parts of the jacket that you found difficult to sew?
A: Places where the fabric is hard, ironing is difficult, and the weave of the cut is prone to fraying. However, I think it's a good fabric because it doesn't wrinkle easily and the silhouette doesn't collapse.
Q: Is there anything you keep in mind or value when sewing clothes on a daily basis?
A: Even with the same pattern, the silhouette may change depending on the sewing. The better the silhouette, the better the comfort and the better the style. I sew with all my heart so that the customer who wears the clothes I sew feels comfortable, and the customer who wears the clothes looks nice.
<Trouser Sewing Ms. Rie Sano>
After graduating from a vocational school, he worked at a sewing factory for about four years. After getting married and having a baby, he hadn't done sewing work for about 5 years, but after that, he started working as a consignment sewing worker at home.
It seems that you mainly sew at home, but you continue to sew clothes that do everything from cutting the fabric of high-end ready-to-wear clothes, sewing, and even the final process of disposing of the thread after attaching buttons. It seems that it was taken. It seems that the history of sewing so far is about 15 years. I also asked Okamoto-san a few questions.
Q: Do you have any processes or places that you are good at sewing?
A: My favorite work is making pockets, attaching cuffs, and stitching (especially sewing machines). * A drop sewing machine is a specification that inserts a stitch so that it is not visible from the front at the "seam" of two fabrics sewn together or at the last minute.
Q: Is there anything you would like the customer to see in the trousers you sewed this time?
A: A total of 4 pockets and a front opening.
Q: Were there any parts that were difficult to sew on this trouser?
A: It is a penetrating stitch of the body where the fabric of both the back bodice pockets, the left front facing, and the fabric of the waist part overlap.
Q: Is there anything you keep in mind or value when sewing clothes on a daily basis? A: It's something that someone will eventually wear, so it's important to work carefully so that people will think it's beautiful no matter where they look at it.
<Coat Sewing Mr. Koichi Narikiyo>
Mr. Narikiyo, who has mentioned his name many times on this blog, has heard from not only Mr. Yamauchi of Yamauchi, but also from two designers of IRENISA.
After graduating from a vocational school, he got a job at a sewing factory in Kagawa Prefecture in order to pursue clothing making in depth. It seems that he left the sewing industry only once, but after that he was re-employed at a sewing factory in Tokyo and learned cutting and sample sewing.
Sample sewing is basically done by the most skilled, knowledgeable and experienced people in the factory. After retiring from the sewing factory, he started sewing as a sole proprietor in Tokyo, met "Yamauchi", and is now sewing in Fukuoka Prefecture. It seems that the work of sewing is about 15 years. Even in Yamauchi's collection, almost all of the heavyweight outerwear is sewn by Mr. Narikiyo.
Q: Do you have any specialties or strengths in your own sewing?
A: I am good at sewing heavy clothing such as coats and jackets, but I also like sewing pants and shirts, so I think I am good at it. When I was working at a factory, I used high-end women's clothing, and when I became an individual, I started using men's clothing because I met "Yamauchi". I have experienced various things such as the "softness" necessary for ladies and the "hardness" for men, so my strength is that I can make technical proposals according to the item, material, and atmosphere.
Q: Is there anything in particular you would like customers to see in the coat you sewed this time?
A: In terms of sewing, I think it's the BC (back center) switching and gusset. Because it is made with a half lining, we carefully processed how the seam allowance looks and how it ends. The order of sewing is also important. If the pleats of the gusset are not properly cut, the iron is folded at the beginning, and the thread tension of the sewing machine is not correct, the finished product will be ruined. I also like the belt loops on the sides.
Q: Was there any part of the coat you sewed this time that was difficult to sew?
A: After all, it was an ironing process, and it was a technical battle between steam and vacuum. The repulsion was very strong, and even if I thought that the iron worked well, I would lose my guard and float when the steam hit a little. It's hard work because it's a good fabric. I also thought about how to cut seam allowances. We take care of things that no one cares about.
Q: Is there anything you keep in mind or value when sewing clothes on a daily basis?
A: Since I do the final processes such as cutting, sewing, and attaching buttons by myself, I make each garment carefully. Cutting is also very important, especially the texture of the fabric will affect not only the finished product, but also the shape of the product five or ten years from now.
This time, in producing and selling Mr. Yamauchi's coat, there are many people's connections and stories, and I would like to continue making good products while imagining that customers will create stories in the future. .
__________
As mentioned above, it's not a long story, but I contacted the people who sewed each of the clothes this time and asked them about their stories.
Even with the techniques that we have cultivated over the years, it seems that the sewing process was difficult in many ways because the fabric of this quality was rarely sewn. , It is made very carefully.
I would appreciate it if those who could see the three types of clothes this time could feel this aspect even a little. I will introduce you again. Continue. .