It's November, so it's finally here.
"MOTHER HAND artisan"
Counting back, this marks the eighth winter season that MOTHER HAND artisan sweaters have graced our store, CASANOVA&CO.
Currently, these super-special sweaters are crafted in a remote atelier deep in the mountains of Tokushima Prefecture.
When we first started carrying them, MOTHER HAND artisan was a knitwear brand made by a Japanese couple in Belgium, and we imported them.
Now, the production base is much closer than Belgium.
However, it's not just that the production location has changed; just like Araki Yuu, whom I introduced earlier, the quality of the sweaters created by Mr. and Mrs. Nagai of MOTHER HAND artisan has greatly improved.
And now, for this eighth winter season.
The brand has created its most intricately constructed sweater to date, and I personally feel that it's a piece I've put even more thought into since the ordering stage.
First, this season's release will be split into two parts.
The first is this one.
The second, featuring a different material from this one – a "75% wool, 25% angora fulled sweater" in a slightly high-neck "GEEL" model, in a very dark gray – will be released around December, with only a few pieces available per size.
So,
Yes.
The main event is this one.
Mr. and Mrs. Nagai of MOTHER HAND artisan have warmly supported me since I was in my mid-20s, a time when I knew even less about what I was doing, and they have continued to produce sweaters in various colors, materials, and models.
Two years ago, the brand introduced an astonishing new material: "62% silk, 38% mohair." Last year, they created a custom color for us in that material, called "CASANOVA BROWN."
And this year.
From the time of ordering, I sensed a very high possibility of reaching a certain milestone within myself, and I decided to use a "color" for MOTHER HAND artisan that I had almost never handled in my buying for all brands — or rather, if there were other color variations, I would have chosen those.
That is, "BLACK."
I myself almost never wear black, especially pure black.
This is because I find black to be too strong, and I'm more drawn to what I call "exquisite colorings." I also believe that creating such "exquisite colorings" is a fusion of sensibility and skill, which is why I was interested in that aspect.
Therefore, with the exception of COMOLI, "black" garments rarely appeared in our store unless they were exceptionally technically rich.
Given this, and the fact that MOTHER HAND artisan offers countless color variations, especially in recent years, Mr. Nagai has been kind enough to tell me, "You can do whatever you like, even if it's not a standard color." Naturally, I started thinking about how to create an "exquisite color."
The result of that was the "CASANOVA BROWN" and "SMOKY HONEY" colors that we sold last year.
And then, this year.
As I mentioned above, I aimed to skillfully use the color "BLACK" in a way that wouldn't overpower other colors, creating something that achieved a "harmony" I envisioned.
This is this season's coloring.
It's "CASANOVA BLACK."
This is it.
Silk: PLUM
Mohair: BLACK
The "CASANOVA BLACK" color is formed by using two different shades for the two materials, and due to the percentage distribution of the blend and the material characteristics, even with opposing combinations, it would never have come into existence in this way.
I'm very pleased with how it turned out; I believe we've created something excellent.
When I placed the order, I conveyed my vision, and of course, I strongly sought Mr. Nagai's opinion. Although it was an unprecedented combination, he told me that "a cool color would emerge" based on his many years of experience, so I had high expectations.
As mentioned above, the silk is PLUM, a purplish shade, and is a tremendously shiny yarn with absolutely no fuzz.
The idea is to cover that with fuzzy black mohair.
I think it looks like a different color depending on the angle you look at it.
And this material is incredibly, unbelievably amazing.
MOTHER HAND artisan's original yarn.
The blend is 62% silk (PLUM).
And 38% mohair (BLACK).
Let me explain each one.
<Silk (PLUM)>
I think everyone knows that silk is a thread spun by silkworms.
There are two main types of silkworms:
・Wild silkworms (natural)
・Domesticated silkworms (farmed)
They are divided into these categories.
This one is from wild silkworms, a natural product.
Natural and farmed silkworms seem to have different characteristics; wild silkworms appear to have slightly thicker fibers, better heat retention, moisture absorption and release, and antibacterial properties, but that's not the crucial point here.
We use "raw silk" that maximizes the characteristics of wild silkworm fibers.
Silk isn't just "raw silk"; there are several stages, such as "spun silk" and "spun noil silk."
The fiber spun by the silkworm is covered with protein on the outside, and within it lies the material that holds "the greatest charm of silk—its triangular cross-section."
"Raw silk," extracted through a process of removing that outer protein layer, offers immense benefits when it becomes a sweater.
<Mohair (BLACK)>
Mohair, the fleece of the Angora goat.
Turkey, South Africa, and America are said to be the world's top three mohair producing regions.
Among them, MOTHER HAND artisan uses mohair from South Africa.
And within that, it's apparently "superfine kid mohair" quality.
Superfine kid mohair sounds high-quality just by its name, and indeed, its quality is truly exceptional.
However, the important thing here is not about its fineness, but...
Most mohair knitwear in the world tends to be light and fluffy, with a loose weave.
Therefore, mohair sweaters probably don't have a very warm image.
However, statistically, mohair is said to have three times, or perhaps even more, the insulating power of wool.
But that's because of mohair fibers' characteristic of being "slippery," which causes them to invariably snag on knitting machines during production. This disadvantage in production leads to only loose, low-density mohair knits being widely distributed.
Therefore, I don't think there's any public perception of "mohair = warm."
<Combination of Silk and Mohair>
As mentioned above, raw silk and superfine kid mohair.
Using those materials, three strands of raw silk and three strands of mohair, a total of six strands, are twisted together to form a "fancy yarn."
The six strands, now forming a single yarn, are then knitted using the "domestic hand-flat knitting machine" employed by MOTHER HAND artisan.
However, raw silk is an extremely fine thread, yet it achieves this level of thickness.
Due to the production drawback where mohair always snags on the knitting machine, only loose, low-density knits exist, yet this achieves such high density.
High moisture absorption of raw silk.
High heat retention of mohair.
Therefore, even when worn over a T-shirt, it offers a smooth feel against the skin, a very comfortable substantiality, and perfect warmth.
In this way, they are able to create sweaters that absolutely cannot exist elsewhere in the world.
This is the amazing thing about MOTHER HAND artisan, who create using a "domestic hand-flat knitting machine"—a tool no longer manufactured—employing their own unique theories and techniques.
Furthermore, even after acquiring this series, owners enjoy numerous benefits such as "it doesn't shrink when washed," "it's resistant to pilling," and "it doesn't get moth-eaten."
Having experienced these things myself, among all the sweaters I've owned, this series is unequivocally number one.
Therefore, I say,
"It's divine."
It is.
And so, sweaters made of 62% silk and 38% mohair in this "CASANOVA BLACK" color.
This season, I placed an order with MOTHER HAND artisan for two models.
MOTHER HAND artisan
BASTOGNE
material _ SILK 62%,MOHAIR 38%
color _ CASANOVA BLACK
button _ BURNED BUFFALO HORN
size _ 2,4,6
※Sold out
MOTHER HAND artisan
MONS
material _ SILK 62%,MOHAIR 38%
color _ CASANOVA BLACK
size _ 2,4,6
※Size 2 is sold out
These two.
The new BASTOGNE and MONS, a crew-neck type that we didn't carry last year.
As some of you may already know, "BASTOGNE" is the brand's first-ever cardigan model.
For me, who truly loves this material, a new shape is something I've been eagerly awaiting.
And it's a cardigan, no less.
Even for those who like this genre of clothing, I get the impression that not many people have a cardigan they truly love.
I myself am not particularly fond of the typical V-shape front of cardigans, and I've rarely encountered one that I found truly cool.
Actually, right after we sold last year's MOTHER HAND artisan sweaters, I spoke with Mr. Nagai, and he mentioned he was thinking of making a cardigan.
I also have a gaping hole in my wardrobe for cardigans, and I was really looking forward to a MOTHER HAND artisan-quality cardigan.
But at that time, I told Mr. Nagai, "I prefer something that doesn't have a V-front."
Then he said, "I'm not thinking of anything ordinary."
So, I was really looking forward to it with anticipation.
And when I saw the sample at the exhibition, it was a completely different beast from your average cardigan.
In that moment, I knew this was it.
First and foremost, the MOTHER HAND artisan brand, as mentioned earlier, slowly knits its garments using an old-fashioned tool called a "domestic hand-flat knitting machine."
Especially this series, which uses mohair—a material that tends to snag on the knitting machine and is difficult to knit into a high-density fabric—is said to be extremely challenging and time-consuming.
Therefore, with crew-neck items, the Nagais can only produce "one garment per day."
However, the newly introduced "BASTOGNE" cardigan has more details due to its button-front opening, requiring even more effort. Isn't that crazy?
Until now, they had a production capacity of one garment per day, but this cardigan is an ultra-cardigan that cannot be completed even after a full day.
A masterpiece filled with "superhuman" divine craftsmanship.
Welcome, everyone, to the divine world.
Let me introduce it to you.
In terms of appearance, the front isn't the typical V-shape, but rather closer to a crew neck.
The neck edge is curled, utilizing the characteristics of the knit fabric.
The neck edge is curled, but it's properly finished, not simply cut, so it won't fray.
Also, the direction of the knit changes between the body and the neck, with a single stitch running through the boundary. This is hand-sewn stitching, done with the same yarn as the knit, to prevent the neck from stretching.
As I'll introduce later, the silk/mohair sweater series features MOTHER HAND artisan's completely original shape, with all transition points being curved.
Normally, sweaters have straight lines because the "stitches" that form them are connected in a straight line.
But, this series is different.
Mr. Nagai's wife knits the designed shape on a "domestic hand-flat knitting machine,"
And Mr. Nagai (the husband) hand-sews all the parts that require sewing.
Look at this curved shape.
There's a bit of volume under the armhole, and it curves sharply towards the hem.
Have you ever seen such an outline on a sweater?
Actually, MOTHER HAND artisan sweaters are knitted by starting from the front hem and continuing with the same part shape, but as you move up from the hem, the number of stitches is gradually increased to create this body shape.
This is a photo of the side of the front body.
Can you tell that the number of stitches increases as you go up?
Look at this.
The red circle indicates where the stitches have increased.
I made this hoping it would be easy to understand, but it's incredibly unclear, haha.
Well, just see it in person.
And what's amazing about this when it becomes a cardigan is this.
The buttonholes.
MOTHER HAND artisan does not add details to the knit body afterwards.
In other words, the buttonholes aren't made by cutting into the knit after it's been knitted.
When knitting from the front hem, simultaneously,
"increasing stitches along the sides as knitting progresses,"
"and pausing stitches only at the buttonhole locations."
These two actions are performed "simultaneously" to create the opening for the button.
And when finishing the buttonhole, Mr. Nagai (the husband) hand-sews it with the same thread as the knit for reinforcement—an ultra-specialized technique.
I think the buttonholes themselves boast incredible coolness, so if you can see them in person, really examine them closely.
And when knitted from the hem, the upper half of this sweater also has a design with a large number of curves.
Once knitted up to the armhole, it becomes necessary to decrease stitches for the armhole section. This is done by performing a "decrease" operation while continuing to knit.
And when there's a buttonhole, the stitches for that section are paused at that position.
Once past the buttonhole, the stitches are reactivated, and at the same time, the number of armhole stitches is adjusted.
However, this sweater also has a very unique shoulder line.
It's on a hanger, so there's a slight hanger line, but the slope and roundness of the shoulder are incredible.
Can you tell?
When creating the roundness of the shoulder during wear, a significant height is added from the side of the neck to the top of the armhole.
There shouldn't be any other sweater with this much roundness in the shoulder.
Moreover, achieving this shoulder roundness with this "silk/mohair" material and this "heavyweight, high-density" knit, it's said that there's no other way than for Mr. Nagai's wife to knit it with extreme effort using a "domestic hand-flat knitting machine."
This shoulder area involves the most complex elements in knitting this sweater,
・Increasing stitches to create shoulder width
・Decreasing stitches to create the neckline
・Pausing stitches on the shoulder from the outside in, and knitting forward while increasing stitches
・Pulling down the mohair yarn as it tends to snag on the knitting machine
・Slightly pulling the yarn fed to the knitting machine one stitch at a time before knitting
・Pausing stitches at the buttonhole locations for the hole itself
It is said that unless these six operations are performed simultaneously, the design will not turn out as intended.
Well, you probably don't quite grasp it as it's too specialized, but what's described above isn't a theory of sweater making; it's MOTHER HAND artisan's original design and original recipe for the process.
You'll feel it the moment you try on the real thing.
Back.
As mentioned earlier, it is knitted from the front hem, then the direction of the knit fabric is changed, and it is continuously knitted up to the back hem.
The body is one continuous piece from front to back.
The sleeves are knitted cylindrically, one for each side.
Even the sleeves are made with a completely different process than regular sweaters.
According to Mr. Nagai, even knitwear specialists can't figure out how the sleeves of MOTHER HAND artisan sweaters are shaped.
There are no ribs, no seams on the sleeves themselves, and the shape tapers significantly from the armhole to the cuff.
The cuffs also narrow sharply, with a curled shape due to the nature of the knit fabric.
And the sewing of the armholes connecting the body and sleeves is all done by hand by Mr. Nagai (the husband).
Armholes are common to all clothes, but the armhole on the body side and the armhole on the sleeve side are different in size.
The idea is that by fitting the larger armhole of the sleeve precisely into the smaller armhole of the body, the shoulder can move smoothly.
This is true for sweaters, shirts, and jackets, but in the case of sweaters, unlike other woven garments, they are formed by individual "stitches."
Therefore, it's not simply a matter of hand-sewing; it's an arduous process of sewing the correct number of sleeve stitches to the correct position of the body stitches, as designed by Mr. Nagai.
It's a process of sewing one stitch at a time, concentrating and counting carefully so as not to make a mistake in the number.
And, and, the secret of this cardigan is also hidden in this front placket.
MOTHER HAND artisan's "BASTOGNE" has two sewing points on the placket, one from the "front" and one from the "back."
This is quite important, as most cardigans have a ribbed placket, or even if they don't, the front edge tends to be relatively flimsy, doesn't it?
Haven't you ever seen someone wearing a cardigan where only the front gradually stretches out, making it longer?
I have an impression that the front of cardigans tends to stretch easily and lose its shape.
But the items made by Mr. Nagai of MOTHER HAND artisan are not like that at all.
You can't tell from the front or the back, so I gave up trying to take pictures.
From the front, anti-stretch stitching is applied with a chain stitch, using the same yarn as the knit body and in the exact same way as the knit body's stitches.
Then, from the back, the raw edge of the main fabric is folded back and hand-sewn in place.
It's completely invisible, but when you actually touch the placket, you can feel how thoroughly reinforced and strong it is.
Even in areas that aren't visible, the sweaters made by MOTHER HAND artisan demonstrate thorough quality down to every last detail.
Thanks to this kind of craftsmanship and these details, I believe you can realize the "true quality" as you continue to wear it over time.
I also got to choose the buttons I liked, so I instinctively asked for burnt buffalo horn buttons.
These buttons have a burnt edge all the way around.
I think they match the mood of the knit very well.
And the back.
You can clearly see the structure of "BASTOGNE".
If it were a straight section, it could be sewn using linking tools (for knitting), but this sweater's design has too many curves due to "decreasing" and "increasing" stitches.
Armholes too.
And body sides too.
A sweater where skillful handiwork is extensively used, based on unique theories.
The craftsmanship is incredibly meticulous, careful, and thorough, and this quality is felt not just when new, but increasingly so as time goes on.
As the saying goes, "Leave it to the professionals," and this sweater, made by true masters of their craft, is truly excellent.
Not only cardigan types, but also crew neck "MONS."
This is also extremely well-made.
Like the "BASTOGNE" before, it's a fully hand-knitted sweater.
For those who don't need an open front and like CASANOVA BLACK, this MONS is for you.
Wearing "BASTOGNE."
I'm 167cm tall, 52kg, and wearing the smallest size 2.
I think size 2 would generally fit women and people up to about 172-173cm tall.
Though it depends on body type and preference.
Spreading your arms out reveals the shape of "BASTOGNE" clearly.
It has a round neck, but the front drop of the neck is completely different from a crew neck.
Also, Mr. Nagai said that the length is set one size shorter than the crew neck MONS.
I'll post a wearing photo of MONS later, so please take a look.
With five buttons on the front, the impression changes quite a bit depending on which ones you fasten.
I don't think I'll ever fasten the top two buttons or the very bottom one.
I think it's also good to wear it fully open, like a relaxed jacket.
Well, I'm happy for whoever owns it to wear it however they like.
This is the crew neck "MONS."
I'm wearing the smallest size 2, same as the BASTOGNE.
This also has a curved outline where the hem is significantly scooped out from the voluminous body width.
And to achieve this shape using "individual stitches" in knitting...
Unbelievable.
For "BASTOGNE" and "MONS," if you're considering them, each has its own purpose, so please choose what's most suitable for you.
And finally...
MOTHER HAND artisan
ARM WARMER
material _ SILK 62%,MOHAIR 38%
color _ CASANOVA BROWN
size _ ONE
This.
A hidden gem.
Arm warmers.
This year, I think it's probably only at CASANOVA&CO?
I don't know.
When Mr. Nagai told me at the exhibition that he could make something like this, what he showed me was a prototype arm warmer.
Arm warmers made with rib knitting to provide elasticity.
I thought these would be great for gifts in the cold season, or even for myself, so I replied "Please make them!" about 2 seconds after seeing them.
Since the prototype was made of silk and mohair, when I thought about what color would be good, the first thing that came to mind was the "CASANOVA BROWN" coloring that was made for me last year.
The reason is that I anticipated that women would be the main users of these arm warmers.
Because the price is also very good for a gift.
At that time, when I imagined the CASANOVA BROWN coloring from last year on a woman's hand, an incredibly stylish image popped into my head.
I thought that arm warmers with this material and this coloring probably wouldn't be found in other brands.
Of course, I think they would also be good for customers who purchased the CASANOVA BROWN sweater last year, and even for those who didn't.
It's a rib knit with a fingerless design that utilizes the seam area.
See?
Aren't they cute?
This is what it looks like when stretched.
It's not too tight, and it naturally creates a crinkled look.
It's washable, very warm, and I think it would be excellent for deep winter.
The secret item, "Arm Warmers."
For sweaters, there are two types of CASANOVA BLACK: "BASTOGNE" and "MONS."
I think many brands offer sweaters around this time, but this brand continues to create products that no one else can.
For those who appreciate it, please experience the ultimate craftsmanship of MOTHER HAND artisan.