I haven't written on this blog at all since nonnotte because I've been doing a lot of things, but I think the storefront has changed quite a bit in that time.
Like the new season.
We are planning a limited-time DAN TOMIMATSU event starting April 6th (Saturday), but I think you will be able to enjoy the clothes well before then.
And today, I would like to introduce you to another "amazing world".
John Alexander Skelton.
I think everyone knows about this brand, but there is only limited information available on the internet, and of course the price is not disclosed.
They can't be listed on online stores, prices aren't public, and on top of that, John Alexander Skelton's clothes don't have the name "John Alexander Skelton" written on them anywhere.
In other words, the brand name is not written on the brand tag or the attached hang tag.
Well, what the designer himself says from the beginning is, ``Look at my clothes, for what they are.'' There is no need to compete in the market with brand names or prices, but rather, ``What do you feel from the clothes? I think it shows that they are thinking very much about whether they will receive it or not.
Well, this is a brand where you can't compete on price at all. lol
However, there is something ``overwhelmingly amazing'' about the clothes. surely.
In terms of the brand's intentions, it is basically not okay to write in too much detail, so just in case, is it okay to write about it on the blog? When I asked her, she said OK, so I thought I'd introduce her in my own way.
However, I feel that these clothes are a complex combination of extremely specialized elements in the making of clothes, so it would be difficult to introduce them all on this blog.
Also, when the customer actually wears it, they will probably feel the same way, so in a sense, I will leave that part as a "romantic" part. lol
Let me introduce you.
John Alexander Skeleton
BUFFALO SHIRT
material_SILK 100%
color _ BRONZE
size_XS,S,M,L
*XS and L sizes are sold out.
John Alexander Skeleton
SEDGE JACKET
material_COTTON 100%
color _ BLUE EMBROIDERED
size_XS,S,M
*S size is sold out
John Alexander Skeleton
CXV MOONSAILOR TROUSER
material_SILK 100%
color _ BRONZE
size_XS,S
John Alexander Skeleton
CLINK SHIRT
material_COTTON 100%
color _ JAPANESE FLORAL PRINT
size_S,M
John Alexander Skeleton
CLINK SHIRT
material _ COTTON 50%,LINEN 50%
color _ CREAM EMBROIDERED
size_S,M
John Alexander Skeleton
SAVOCCA SHIRT
material_COTTON 100%
color _ BLACK PRINT
size_S,M
The six types listed above are available in this brand's collection at our store.
Oh, and there are suspenders, but I didn't take a photo of them. .
It's difficult to introduce all of them at once, so today I'll focus on the first three.
・BUFFALO SHIRT
・SEDGE JACKET
・CXV MOONSAILOR TROUSER
Let me introduce you a little bit about it.
To begin with, I first learned about this brand when I joined CASANOVA&CO, or around that time.
So, about 8 years ago.
This is John Alexander Skelton's 15th collection.
So, if you think of collections twice a year, one for spring/summer and one for fall/winter, it's right around that time.
At that time, I don't think fashion magazines were as lifestyle-oriented as they are now, so I think clothes were still being explored in depth, and I think it was still a good time.
I forget which magazine, but at the time, I think it was his debut collection, and there was a special feature on John Alexander Skelton's collection.
I still remember how shocked I was when I saw that.
There have been two times in my life when I was shocked by a magazine, one of which was "John Alexander Skelton."
By the way, the other toogood was featured when they just debuted.
So, the reason why I decided to work with John Alexander Skelton is because I felt that there was something extremely consistent and thorough about it.
However, it is true that there are high hurdles to dealing with brands in this genre.
I personally contacted the brand and didn't receive a response for a year. lol
However, I feel that it is my duty to introduce the world's ``valuable clothes'' to everyone, so I really wanted to introduce this brand's clothes.
So, let me introduce you a little bit.
First of all, this.
It's called BUFFALO SHIRT.
The blending rate is 100% silk as stated above.
Original fabric made in England.
At the silk stage, I think it's silk spinning. I felt like wearing it myself.
I think it's probably true.
I think this fabric will be the main fabric for the 15th John Alexander Skelton collection.
Made of 100% silk with various leaf patterns, large and small, probably created using a jacquard loom.
First of all, John Alexander Skelton is not just a brand that designs, but the designers themselves have their own will and inherent thoughts, and we deeply investigate and study them, and we understand the "process". , I think it expresses the "goal at this stage."
Well, what does that mean in this 15th collection?
John Alexander Skelton himself once wondered how society was in harmony with nature during the Neolithic era, approximately 10,000 years ago. It seems like he was interested in that.
However, that interest has changed and evolved over the years, and now , when we replace Neolithic society and harmony with nature with modern society, what benefits does it bring to modern times? Is it possible? This seems to have changed the way they think about research.
In this modern society, where artificial development continues, it is in gardens and natural parks that we can feel and interact with nature. This is expressed through a collection.
Well, in other words, the clothes are made by "researchers" who have the talent for making clothes.
John Alexander Skelton's clothes.
This is a fabric that fully expresses this. this.
Well, when you look at the fabric, there are no irregularities at all, as it is spun silk, and you can feel the high quality of the fabric no matter where you look at it.
It looks matte in the photo, but when you wear it, it has a natural glow to it.
We carry two types of clothing: BUFFALO SHIRT and CXV MOONSAILOR TROUSER.
I'm also happy to be able to handle John Alexander Skelton in this way, and I'm wearing the BUFFALO SHIRT with great enthusiasm.
I feel great when I wear it.
Well, even though this BUFFALO SHIRT is called a shirt, the structure of the clothing is not a shirt at all.
seriously.
The fabric isn't that thick, and since it's 100% silk, I like to wear it casually like a shirt, except in the middle of summer. So I'm wearing an XS of this.
It's a small tailored collar, or rather an open collar, and the neck is open, which gives it a slightly cooler look, and when it gets hot, I like to wear it as an inner layer with the OLDE HOMESTEADER sleeveless.
Just this collar.
From the moment I saw it, I felt something strange about its appearance that I had never felt before.
I kept wearing it to figure it out.
Then, I realized why I felt so uncomfortable at first.
The construction of this collar is amazing.
At first glance, it looks like a smaller tailored collar, so it hasn't really changed that much. At first glance.
However, from the moment it was delivered, there was one thing that bothered me.
It's a "mysterious wrinkle" on the lapel of the upper collar.
If you look at the photo above, you can see that there is a slight wrinkle on the upper collar on the left side of the body, as if it had been pulled.
And the cutting of the lapel of the upper collar.
When not worn or on a hanger, the lapel cut looks straight and straight.
But, this lapel line.
When you wear it, it becomes naturally soft and curves.
What's more, the collar is fluffy and soft.
This is amazing.
What do you mean.
The collar is upright.
If you look at it like this, you can clearly see that it's a stand-up collar and the opening of the collar is small. ?
The opening dimension of this neck is clearly narrower than that of a human neck.
In other words,,,
The two measurements shown with this fingertip were intentionally cut to completely different dimensions.
The size of the "measurement value of the collar attached to the body" that I'm pointing with my finger...
This is the dimension value of the "outer circumference of the collar".
This BUFFALO SHIRT is designed to be worn with the collar turned (lay down).
Therefore, by folding the collar...
In this way, the lapel of the upper collar is aimed to curve naturally to match the wearer's body measurements when worn.
this,,,
Superb tailoring technique.
If you create the lapel curve on the pattern from the beginning, only the collar tip curve will occur as set.
After all, depending on the wearer's physique, the curves the brand envisions may not appear.
That's why we intentionally designed a difference in the dimensions of the upper and lower parts of the collar so that when worn, a natural curve is drawn to match the wearer's body.
Designed to look beautiful when worn, not on a hanger.
Therefore, although John Alexander Skelton's clothes are designed as a brand , there are people who will wear them, and by adding the act of wearing them, the form of the clothes that the brand ideals is ultimately created. .
Isn't this dangerous? ?
As the designer himself said, "I want you to feel it when you wear it" is reflected in the clothes themselves.
I sometimes see various brands saying, "You can feel it when you put it on," but for me, most of the things that say that are about things that feel the same whether they're on a hanger or when you wear them. Almost.
Well, that's what happens, because it's like this with a hanger. That's all I think.
With so many clothes being made instantly, you can definitely feel the greatness of John Alexander Skelton's clothes.
Well, all clothes are made that way.
It's crazy, it's crazy.
So, if you understand the above and look at this photo, you will see that there is a bulge with a "margin" at the folding point of the collar.
This is true even when viewed from the side.
These two points on your fingertips.
The outer circumference of the collar fits tightly against the body.
The turning point is definitely bulging.
Normally, I don't think any clothes with a collar like this have a collar structure like this.
This is the first design I've seen.
However, as I said earlier, this kind of design and structure makes a clear difference when worn.
I think John Alexander Skelton's clothes are expensive clothes.
However, the reason exists everywhere in clothing.
No matter what kind of clothing you wear, there is a "normal" thing. Whether it's a shirt, pants, or a jacket.
However, I think that "normal" approach will only result in the same thing.
Most of the clothes in the world are made of "normal" materials.
That's why I think the culture of clothes will never deepen.
I believe that there is great value in making clothes from scratch, something that does not normally exist in the apparel market.
And this BUFFALO SHIRT.
It has patch pockets with flaps and looks like a box silhouette at first glance, but it's completely different.
The position of the flap is clearly not a normal position, and the waist shape will naturally come into play when you wear it, but the flap helps with that, and the three-dimensional effect when you wear it is incredible.
Also, I don't think I need to mention that all the leaf patterns are arranged symmetrically, but please check the actual product.
The shoulders are designed to be high on the body. Because it's called a shirt.
The sleeves are an aftermarket design with two sleeves.
It is not sewn in a way that the body and inner sleeves are sewn in a single line, as is the case with regular shirts that are currently mainstream.
This is common to all John Alexander Skelton shirts.
And this.
The switching line between the front and back body.
The reason there is a switching line in this position is that when you put it on, you can feel it, and it creates a ``sculptural three-dimensional effect'' on the side of the body that changes with your movements.
When you wear it, you can feel that the transition line is not in the middle of the side of the body, but in a unique position, creating a meaningful curve.
buttonhole.
I can really feel the brand's aim with this buttonhole.
A buttonhole is made up of two pieces: a thread that stitches the outside, and a core thread that forms the core of the hole.
Please look carefully.
In John Alexander Skelton, the color of the hole stitch thread and the core thread are different.
This would never happen in "normal" clothing production.
"Usually" both buttonholes are always made in the same color.
However, in this shirt, the hole thread has a color that matches the ground of the outer material.
And the core yarn is the same color as the yarn that outlines the leaf pattern.
By doing this, you can create a piece of clothing in which every detail is ``one''.
For me, this is the second time I've used a brand that uses two colors of thread in the buttonhole, after COTTLE.
The quality of the clothes that are created through the accumulation of these details is completely different from anything else out there.
In terms of BUFFALO SHIRT size, I am 167cm tall and weigh 52kg, and I wanted a relatively tight fit, so I chose XS.
I think this BUFFALO SHIRT is a straight forward idea like the Japanese brand's XS, S, M, and L.
And next.
SEDGE JACKET.
I wonder if this will also represent John Alexander Skeleton.
The fabric is a 100% cotton moleskin-like fabric. I think that.
But it's not heavy or anything like that.
In terms of clothing, it falls under the category of stand-up collar coveralls, but when I put it on, it didn't fit into that category at all.
I think you will feel a unique sense of overwhelmingness.
You can clearly feel that every detail of the clothes has been thought through.
First of all, I think that in 95% of cases, a 100% cotton blend will only result in casual clothes.
Therefore, I myself was thinking, ``What level of quality can I make in the area of 100% cotton?'' and I decided to work with Kaneta Orimono, my favorite cotton weaving shop. I once made clothes using Suvin Gold Supreme, the world's best cotton fiber, with Mr. Sugihara of nonnotte.
However, this John Alexander Skelton jacket isn't made of cotton of the same quality as Suvin Gold Supreme, and just looking at the fabric, it's super casual.
However, when it becomes ``John Alexander Skelton's clothes'', it has become so complete that it has a sense of luxury that makes you wonder, ``That's a lie.''
I couldn't believe this at first.
I think it's "genius level".
For those of you who visit our store on a regular basis, I think you'll understand that blue-colored clothing is almost never lined up at CASANOVA&CO.
If anything, it's probably denim.
Even the color navy isn't my strong suit, so I don't have many of them lined up.
But this jacket is completely different.
Furthermore, John Alexander Skelton himself rarely uses the color blue as a brand.
The reason for this is that the designer himself says, ``It's a difficult color to use in a collection.''
However, he intentionally tries to create some shades in his collection that he finds difficult.
In other words, in this case, it's "blue."
Personally, I've never come across anything that looks cool in the color blue in my life.
However, this is different.
I'm super impressed.
The reason for this is the well-thought-out design of the clothes.
This is also reflected in this SEDGE JACKET.
When it comes to John Alexander Skelton clothes, the way they look on hangers and the way they look when worn are completely different.
To begin with, I think that there are roughly three types of clothing.
The first is that it doesn't look cool on a hanger, and it doesn't look cool when you wear it.
This is absolutely no good clothes.
The second thing is that it looks cool on a hanger, but when you put it on, it's just something you can only imagine.
This is pretty normal clothing.
And the third one.
I think this is extremely rare.
"It doesn't look cool when it's on a hanger, but when you put it on, it looks amazing."
I think this third outfit is the one with the highest level.
John Alexander Skelton is exactly that.
In other words, the clothes that are most imagined when worn are the ones that have the "greatness".
Now, this SEDGE JACKET.
What do you mean.
Please look at this photo again.
There's a secret hidden around the neck, just like the BAFALLO SHART mentioned earlier.
Normally, stand-up collar clothes don't open like this when you look at them on a hanger.
I don't think it's possible to see all the tags sewn inside to the extent you see in the photo above with other clothes.
Most stand collar ones...
I think most hanging items look like this.
That's why most jackets with stand-up collars instantly give you a Chinese feel when you put them on.
But that's not the case with SEDGE JACKET.
The design of the collar of the stand.
There's a secret hidden here.
The place at the fingertips.
Regarding the dimensions for sewing the collar to the body...
Collar outline.
The upper part of this collar is made larger due to its dimensions.
In other words, it's the complete opposite of the BUFFALO SHIRT mentioned earlier.
But that's not all.
The collar is designed to open neatly and naturally when worn.
Wear this and be amazed.
John Alexander Skelton's clothes look so much better than I imagined.
Well, I didn't take any photos of myself wearing it.
Please look forward to it as a real "romance". lol
As mentioned earlier, the SEDGE JACKET is made of 100% cotton, which makes the stitch work more noticeable, and the stitch work is intricately combined around the neck and shoulders.
This SEDGE JACKET has a total of three pockets on the front.
All of them are round with flaps.
The brand calls it an "offset flap," but it's attached offset from the patch pocket.
do you understand?
Flaps of different sizes.
The flap size is just right to fit inside the patch pocket.
Why are you doing this?
The same goes for the waist pockets located on both the left and right sides of the body.
However, I find it very strange that cotton coverall-type clothing makes the pockets and details stand out so much.
I thought the same thing about COTTLE's denim, and all the visible details are three-dimensional. It's not broken.
Normally, most 100% cotton clothes are completely ruined with the details flattened out, but John Alexander Skelton's clothes have great details.
So, I was curious, and after the product was delivered, I asked, ``The details look really outstanding, but who's sewing it?'', and the reply was, ``It's someone who runs a small, family-run sewing factory.'' It's here.
Yeah.
I have no idea. lol
It may not be obvious at first glance, but it also comes with darts to create a waist shape.
The shoulder area has "high sleeves" that create a beautiful outline of the shoulders.
And a considerable amount of "shirring".
This part is also one of the essences that keeps it from becoming a casual coverall.
And, although the brand name is not mentioned anywhere, the only icon is a number of buttons.
Well, I've always liked clothes with a lot of buttons, so this is my favorite.
By the way, all the buttons are buffalo horn buttons.
When I asked the brand about this, they said that they were all original. I feel like it.
There are also 4 buttons on the cuffs.
Of course, the cuffs are open.
Ideally, it would be best to wear it with two buttons open and the cuffs folded in.
A painting of a plant recorded approximately 600 years ago symbolizes this collection.
Embroidery that uses this as a motif.
This jacket also has a slightly unusual way of switching between the front and back sides of the body.
To begin with, the size and placement of the pockets is a balance that I have never seen before.
However, when you put it on, all those negative feelings of discomfort disappear, and in fact, when you put it on, you'll be surprised by its shape.
You can wear it naturally around town, but it's not at all ordinary.
I think this proves that it's a very good outfit.
If you actually try it on, I think you'll understand this.
back.
As you can see, it has full piping and no lining.
Since it's a British brand, I think you'll instantly get a sense of its simplicity and robustness.
By the way, the first BUFFALO SHIRT was also unlined, and folded down stitching was often used for sewing. I didn't take any photos though.
In addition to the piping, I think the stitching on the back is also quite impressive.
Even in the area where the waist dart fabric overlaps on the back, the stitching for the pockets is neatly added without disrupting the stitching.
I'm sewing as if the thickness of the darts doesn't exist anymore.
This is pretty amazing.
Regarding SEDGE JACKET, it is available in 3 sizes: XS, S, and M.
I'm 167cm tall, weigh 52kg, and my size is XS.
I feel that XS is equivalent to S in Japanese brands, S is equivalent to M in Japan, and M is equivalent to L in Japan.
Regarding this jacket, if you are unsure about the size, it would be better to choose a smaller size.
And the last one for today.
MOONSAILOR TROUSER.
The fabric is the same as the first one introduced, 100% silk leaf pattern.
It feels like pants that give volume with just one tuck and then fall off, but it's completely different.
These pants really feel like the world of John Alexander Skelton has been poured into them.
High waist and no belt loops.
Suspender buttons instantly convey the brand's mood.
All buttons on the front are horn buttons.
The fabric is 100% silk and has a lightweight feel, which I think will keep you cool during the coming spring and summer seasons, but it is also designed to give you a sense of security when worn as pants.
There are no belt loops or a waistband, but when you wear pants, it's important that they fit your waist.
It's not a matter of size, but the structure of the inside of the waist.
As you can see, it's not like the Japanese brands, which are made of solid and hard Marvelt, but there is a white cotton part on the waist lining.
When I touched it, I wasn't sure if it was two pieces or if it was just one layer, but there was a thick "core material" inside.
Unlike the ones commonly used in Japan, it has a double core inside, so it hugs your waist when you wear it.
However, it's not a typical adhesive, so it's not rigid, but soft and gentle to the touch.
This waist fitting is superb.
This is what I mean when I say "it's soft and fits properly." It was my first time to experience something of this level.
The back is a high back specification.
It doesn't look good at all when it's on a hanger, but when worn, the way it curves up from the armpit to the back of the waist is extremely elegant.
However, even though it is a high-back model, there is a "V-shaped switch" to improve the fit around the waist.
I've never seen high-back pants with a switch in this position.
I think this triangular shape allows for a better fit around the waist.
And the needle cinch, which has been completely removed from the beginning. And it has 3 needles.
In addition to the V-shaped switch mentioned earlier, there are also darts.
Darts start relatively close to the side.
I think it's placed in a very unusual position and angle.
Because of this waist detail, there are suspender buttons, but I think the fit will be quite comfortable even without suspenders.
A flap pocket is placed on the right back.
They sit higher than regular pants and are placed on the sides.
What's more, the shape of the flap pockets also evokes an old-fashioned feel.
Also, I can't really put my hands into this pocket.
At first glance, it may seem like there aren't many detailed features, but that's not the case at all.
These are pants that strongly display the characteristics of the brand.
Originally, it was designed to have a loose shape, but by washing the product, the shape of the inner thighs has changed considerably.
hem.
The hem has a bounced edge on the outside.
The pants are washed and not pressed, so the outline of the pants fluctuates.
I was shocked to see that the concept of pants that I had learned was completely overturned.
If it's a regular brand, it's usually well pressed to finish it.
However, you still have to draw a solid outline.
And I feel an overwhelming sense of strength.
These pants are the most expensive item in this John Alexander Skelton collection that we carry in our store .
The extremely sophisticated design makes it feel incredible when you wear it.
If you can get your hands on these pants, I'm sure they will reign as an absolute presence, but hey, the price is the price.
One of the special pieces.
There is no lining on the back.
Feel the touch of original English silk on your skin to the fullest.
All switching is done by piping.
I said earlier that it was a special piece, but the production numbers are small enough to justify that.
He is said to be 5th in the world.
There is only a description of the blend percentage on the back of this tag.
There is no mention of "John Alexander Skelton" anywhere.
I think size XS is a good size even for people with a petite build.
Even I can wear it full-length without having to hem it, so I think petite or slender people will love it.
Size S is for people around 175cm.
I feel like it has that impact visually.
It's completely different when you wear it.
Experience the high level of perfection of these clothes and the overwhelming power of the brand.
John Alexander Skelton, I'd appreciate it if you could take a look.