Let me introduce you to one of the things I was most looking forward to this autumn/winter season.
In my mind, I've been wanting to introduce it to everyone since February, so it's finally here.
tilt The authentics
The brand debuted in the fall/winter season of 2018, and we've been working together since that time, but I still remember the debut.
From that time on, I didn't have the easy-to-understand appearance that is popular in the modern fashion scene, but I was definitely making honest clothes from that time.
I've written about it many times on this blog, but I'll never forget the multi-tenant building in Shibuya on a rainy day about four years ago.
That's where we met for the first time.
I felt the high quality from the time of my debut, but after that, in the third season, I made a leap.
the quality of clothes.
But this time it's the 7th season.
The stage has changed.
definitely.
Year after year, we carefully check the quality of the clothes that our shop handles, and even among the members, it reigned as the top quality.
I think
Well, all of the brands that I deal with make wonderful things, so I think that even if you close your eyes when choosing clothes and pick them up, you'll be completely satisfied. hey. smile
Among them, clothes that are made with sincerity and can hear the breath of the soul, "hands-on" clothes.
Everybody shudder.
Of this time.
tilt The authentics
Denim Like Latine Sprit Raglan Coverall
fabric_Hi Count Cotton Latin
material _ Cotton 100%
color_Green Cotton
size_1,2,3
*Sold out
This coverall.
I have a habit of looking at the same thing over and over again when I go to an exhibition and it really pierces my heart, and when I get moved, I end up taking pictures of the same thing, but this time. Exactly.
However, the brand's clothing that will appear after this is also quite silly, so it's not like this is Camp Ten's ace and No. 4.
Well, but it would be nice if you could think of it as the home run king, the RBI king, the top batter, the stealing base king, and the Golden Glove Award. this.
What's wrong?
The fabric, sewing, pattern, accessories, and aim are super excellent.
First, the fabric.
This coverall.
The name says denim lycratine, but please think of it as a denim-like latine.
If you think about it, denim has different colors on the front and back, right?
This coverall is made up of a single piece of fabric with different front and back sides.
Denim is usually
・Single yarn in a "white" state with rope-dyed indigo dye on the warp
・Bleached color single weft
is used and is defined as being woven in a 2/1 or 3/1 twill weave.
Therefore, it is characterized by the fact that each color thread can be seen on the front and back at a ratio of about 7:3.
I look like this, but I have a jeans sommelier. jeans sommelier.
I rarely use it.
I used it now.
Well, all that aside, the latiné fabric used by Tilt The Authentics is a little closer to what it looks like.
So you can see a slightly darker and unique green from the table.
But hey, that thread is wonderful.
Extremely dangerous.
this fabric,
・Two-ply yarn with a yarn-dyed reactive dye that reproduces a color that has yellowed after many years of indigo dyeing in the warp.
・The weft thread is made of undyed organic cotton, which is not dyed at all.
A "green" two-ply yarn is used.
Green cotton.
Green cotton with a green hue with a natural color and a beauty that makes you doubt your eyes.
It is woven with "Ratine", which is a "change weave" structure of twill weave.
First, from the warp threads.
For the warp, as I said earlier, the indigo dye has turned yellow and turned green.
However, the material is 100% cotton.
Normally, cotton is mainly dyed by directly adding color to the material called direct dye.
However, I can't reproduce the color that way, and that's not what Mr. Nakatsu from Tilt The Authentic is aiming for, so I used reactive dyes, which I rarely do.
I think it was quite difficult to get the color out, but reactive dyes chemically bind the color to the material, so there is no obvious fading.
Then, "double thread" it.
As mentioned above, most denim fabrics are usually made up of only one thread called "single yarn".
But this isn't it, two threads.
Moreover, because it is made of two-ply yarn, it is very fine.
On the other hand, it is the weft.
As mentioned above, this is also extremely rare, green cotton that has been green since birth.
This is also double thread.
However, according to Mr. Nakatsu, there is no standard "two-ply yarn" made from green cotton.
That's why I made it.
This latine is made from twisted yarn.
The fact that the warp and weft are two-ply yarns is extremely important for this fabric.
Tilt The authentics' original fabric that does not exist in the world was made in this way.
And this fabric was woven in Aichi Prefecture, which is the production area of woolen fabric.
"Yamaei Keori".
We have mentioned Kuzuri Keori's name so far, but I think it's already two top Japanese woolen textiles.
Mr. Keori Yamaei and Mr. Keori Kuzuri.
Each one seems to have its own characteristics.
Recently, when I look at woolen fabrics, I've come to understand the difference between the fabrics of these two weavers.
And there is an archive sample that Mr. Yamaei Keori used to make the fabric of a European super brand that everyone knows, and this fabric was inspired by that.
I think it turned out to be something completely different.
Because it is made of cotton, it has a slightly fuzzy surface, but no matter how you look at it, the surface is extremely fine.
And this is the back.
Underneath the indigo that has turned yellow and turned green is "green cotton" with natural coloring.
When you look at it like this, you can feel the fineness of the texture, which is completely different from the general cotton fabric of this kind.
that's why,
Look at this.
This is a microscope of this fabric.
You can see that the threads are tightly woven, and the two-ply yarn makes the fabric naturally fuzzy, but the stitches are well-ordered.
as a comparison.
this.
This is denim.
By the way, this denim is COMOLI.
It's the same magnification, but the fineness of the mesh is completely different, and this is a single yarn.
Compared to the Tilt The Authentics fabric above, you can see that the texture of denim is on another level.
Well, this COMOLI denim has a lot of peculiarities.
It's a gray fabric, and it's a single yarn, but I thought it was because the product was washed, but I thought it was quite stiff at the time of delivery.
After seeing this, I know why.
The warp threads are very tightly twisted.
Oh, that's why. I thought.
Well, I haven't checked with Mr. Komori. I think so.
This is behind tilt The authentics.
Green cotton two-ply yarn looks whitish.
Normally, Ayame advances in a certain direction, but this is an unusual organization that changes direction in the middle.
But, well, the back is also insanely tidy.
By the way, this is the reverse side of COMOLI denim.
Unlike the surface that is full of fluff after being thoroughly washed, it gives the impression that there is little fluff.
And the twill is in a certain direction.
This denim is a light ounce, so the thread is relatively thin, but the fineness of the two-ply yarn Tilt The Authentics stands out.
Maybe it's because it's not made in Okayama, but by Yamaei Keori, a woolen fabric manufacturer.
Very unique.
Latine of tilt The authentics.
Also, although the fabric is made of two-ply yarn, it is very light when you try it on.
It doesn't feel bulky like common coveralls, and it's very smooth even though it's made of 100% cotton.
Also, even though he's wearing coveralls, he has a very neat look on his face.
There is a reason why I said that Tilt The Authentics has "changed the stage" as a brand, not to mention the fabric.
Sewing.
"Maya Garment Factory".
This maya is wonderful.
Maya from Tokyo sews many of the Tilt The Authentics clothes from this season.
The shirts are from Mizude of Fashion Izumi in Saitama Prefecture.
I was astonished when I saw a sample half a year ago.
Not only the fabric, but also this sewing level.
Everywhere you look it's beautiful and very well organized.
It took a lot of time, literally "hands on", and I could really feel that it was sewn three-dimensionally.
It seems that Mr. Nakatsu and Mr. Sugaya, who are the same generation as me, are in charge of Mr. Maya.
We are still young in the fashion industry, and we are still in the next generation, but I heard from Mr. Nakatsu that he is very passionate about the technical profession of sewing.
There are various jobs in the clothing industry, such as sewing factories and weavers. Because there are few on the river.
I learned about it through Mr. Nakatsu from tilt The authentics, but I think I'll be able to introduce him bang bang from now on.
Please take a close look at Maya's sewing technique.
No matter what kind of fabric you use, you can make use of it or kill it by sewing.
Pockets with many curves are also perfect edge stitches.
Round, straight, perfect from placket to hem.
The cuffs don't have openings, but they have beautiful stitches.
What you can see on the front is the edge stitch that holds down the tri-fold.
Water buffalo buttons on the back of the collar.
I'm fucking standing
Looking at both.
Also the 20mm water buffalo on the front.
floating up
In addition, this coverall does not expose the stitches on the upper collar, but it has a moon waist that firmly supports the collar from the back.
Edge stitching that perfectly conforms to the shape of the pocket.
The perfect body without shifting the position of Kandome.
back.
look at this.
Be stunned.
The back side is too beautiful.
Regarding this coverall and sewing, "lock stitching" and "bag stitching" are used depending on the part.
What you were looking at earlier is mainly the "lockstitch" part, where the stitches are exposed on the front.
The body and sleeves are all finished with "bag stitching".
As a result, the areas where the stitches do not come out are clearly separated, so I think the clothes will have a lot of sharpness. I.
Everywhere you look, the bags are beautifully sewn.
Recently, I feel like I haven't dealt with many clothes sewn with bag stitching, but the accuracy of the bag stitching of this coverall is No. 1 I've seen so far.
The raglan curve of the back with a tight angle is also sewn with Moman tie.
This is really amazing.
I can feel that I have a tremendous ability.
It makes me very happy to be able to introduce clothes made with this level of stitching by tilt The authentics and Yamauchi to everyone.
And tilt The authentics, it's not just fabrics and sewing.
The shape of the clothes, in other words, the "silhouette" that is often called, is also very beautiful.
I think that the important item for such a high-quality item is the shoulder circumference.
From the side neck to the shoulders and sleeves is very important.
The other thing is that the armpits are not sluggish.
Any of these
ultra level.
Set-in sleeves on the front.
for,
Raglan sleeves with steep angles at the back.
Furthermore, it is sharply shaved from there and heads for the cuffs.
I didn't take a picture of it.
The shoulder area is a split raglan with plenty of room for movement, and there is no tension during movement.
In addition, it eliminates waste under the armpits and eliminates excess fabric on the sides for a clean look.
The sleeves fall beautifully from the shoulder while being wonderfully gentle and rounded.
It's not enough just to have a good pattern, and it's the sewing technician who makes the best use of this pattern.
It is clothes that everything was matched by supernatural work. this. really.
and,
this.
This is mine, I wore it for about two weeks and washed it.
Even though it was a coverall, it had a luxurious feel to it that wasn't overdone, so I was hesitant to wash it. Only this time.
But after washing it, I washed it and I like it again.
That's all the fabric and sewing.
After washing it, I feel that it has become more prominent.
There was an overall swelling.
Also, I feel that the green cotton on the back of the weft is now visible on the front.
You can also see the structure of the ratine.
In this scorching heat, the store was quite air-conditioned, so I wore it.
The fabric and stitching of these coveralls are pretty well done, but they don't look excessive.
So it's not obvious and I think I can wear it anywhere when I go out.
I think that's another good point about Tilt The Authentics clothes.
If the design is too strong, I will choose the place.
Well, in the first place, this coverall is a coverall.
However, since it is made so well, I think it's clothes that I'm not ashamed of wherever I go.
For uncles who like this kind of thing.
I was impressed with this from the time of the exhibition, and I was even more impressed when I wore it myself, so I got all the stock the brand had.
Still, it's not like there's an abundance of them.
It's very well made, so please check it out if you like it.
These coveralls will go on sale at stores from 12:00 on Sunday, August 1st.
