It will be the first appearance since the free cut strong twist T-shirt. Yamauchi.
This time, the timing is a little different, but I wanted people to see it during this time, so I asked them to create it at a slightly different time.
They made good things.
this time too.
Let me introduce you.
Yamauchi
Plain Weave Limit Density No Mulesing Wool Tailored Jacket
material _ nomulesing wool SUPER140s
color_black khaki
size_2,3,4,5
this.
It is a tailored collar style jacket made with so-called original fabric made by Kuzuri Keori, a weaving shop that Mr. Yamauchi always works with.
This fabric is Yamauchi's original, so it's incredibly high quality, but I'll introduce you to that later.
As for the shape, it is almost the same as the jacket we made with undyed yak wool fabric at our store in November. (Yamauchi always changes details)
In a normal formal tailored jacket, the stitchwork is hardly exposed on the front, but this is a "Yamauchi specification" tailored collar jacket with stitching in various places including the edge.
After that, well, if you think about the way you think, Mr. Yamauchi himself says, "I'm not a tailor."
Nowadays, jackets with "tailored collars" are simply advertised as "made by a tailor", and there are many jackets that look like that, but I'm not going in that direction at all. this. Rest assured.
Specifically, one is the shoulder.
Of course, the roundness of the shoulders is well taken, and the shoulders are constructed by a method called “mimicry”.
As you can see from the photo above, the sleeves are not as high as a suit, and the bodice is not as high as a coverall-like jacket.
With this kind of jacket, exaggeratedly speaking,
・Sleeve height = closer to formal specifications
・High bodice = perfect casual wear
That's one of the criteria for making a decision, but there are a lot of high bodice jackets these days.
Like coveralls.
Also, on the other hand, it's a suit with shoulder pads firmly in place, isn't it? something like
So, intentionally, whenever I find a jacket with sleeves that are not a suit and look decent to some extent, I buy it.
So this time it's this. completely.
Specifically, Yamauchi's jacket does not have shoulder pads, and the seams on the inside are folded in the direction of the sleeves. I'm letting you.
I made this look like "split stitch"
It's called "similarity wari".
This technique is probably almost non-existent in men's clothing, and it seems that none of these jackets incorporate it.
I can see my shoulders properly, not too shabby, and I don't go to the suit.
I think it's a very good balance.
Well, if you want a suit, it's definitely better to wear a suit, but I don't think it's a problem at all for weddings, for example. this.
Also, I think it can be used not only for such scenes, but also for everyday jacket styles.
Slightly high sleeve shoulders.
And, although it is impossible for a formal jacket, the edge stitch.
The hem and sleeves, the pocket openings, and the 30 thick stitches that go into the flap, but with a very fine pitch.
By the way, the cuffs are real faces.
And this area is also rare.
Collar back.
Zigzag reinforcement stitching and collar waist stitching.
It's stitched at perfect intervals.
Plus this.
I can't tell from the photo, but
The fabric on the back of the collar is kept 1mm away from the fabric on the front.
Make sure you can't see it when the collar is back.
This is the basics of dressmaking, but I would like to introduce that I have done so far without any disturbance.
This is because more and more clothes are being made that ignore these aspects, let alone obscure them.
It's obvious that it's been around for a long time, but it's still important to have a complicated specification.
I don't think there are that many professionals who do the original obvious, not just clothes.
That's what I thought while looking at the collar with a splendid edge stitch, even though I refrained from using this lining.
Moderately shaped waist.
It has a classic length that covers about half of the buttocks.
side vents.
The lining is unlined.
The processing of the fabric on the back is also well done.
After that, feel this wonderful fabric to the fullest.
The person who sewed it was "Miyo Takano".
Once again, at Yamauchi, one person sews one piece of clothing from start to finish.
Everyone who sews is a long way in the road, very skillful technicians.
This "sewer tag" is attached with the aim that such techniques will be properly evaluated by the world and such techniques will remain in "Japan".
Nowadays, sewing is increasingly being exported overseas, and of course this corona, but the reality is that the situation in the industry that is "upstream" of the clothing industry, including the sewing industry, is very difficult in Japan.
It seems that there are influences from various aspects, and I myself am getting closer to upstream people every year, so I have more and more opportunities to listen to such people.
I know this is definitely not a cycle that can be changed easily, but I think the first step is to let people who read this blog know about it, and not just introduce clothes. I hope you can recognize that as well.
Well, the reality of the clothing industry is amazing.
In the sewing industry, which is a labor-intensive business, wages are hit in order to lower the selling price of clothes.
However, there are only a limited number of brands and manufacturers that can produce such a large number of clothes, and shops are afraid of inventory risk, so they only buy a few pieces.
That's because it's difficult to sell a lot of the same thing.
There are two main reasons for this.
One is that the sales capacity of the store is not high.
The other reason is that the end user, who ultimately buys the clothes, dislikes the many clothes that exist in the world.
In other words, the closer the clothes get to the finished form, the more they dislike the existence of many of the same items. , because there are opposite theories.
I'm wondering if this cycle can be improved somehow.
To be continued...
Back to the story, this fabric this time.
Yamauchi original made by Mr. Yamauchi of Yamauchi with Mr. Kuzuri Keori.
According to Mr. Yamauchi, there was originally a high-density plain weave wool fabric that Mr. Kuzuri was making, but this fabric is the result of taking it to the limit. Put simply.
This fabric has an ultra-clear name of "plain weave limit density".
Extremely dangerous.
First of all, I really like plain weave wool fabrics.
That's why when I see woolen plain weave fabrics from various brands, the hurdles to purchase are greatly reduced.
Of course it's a balance with the clothes.
However, this fabric has overwhelmingly surpassed what I have seen so far.
That should be it.
This is because it cannot be made into a high-density plain weave.
The raw wool is 100% super 140 no mulesing wool, but it is hard-worsted to create a fine count thread.
It is not possible to weave it normally with an old-fashioned shuttle, so the speed is slowed down as much as possible, and the craftsmen of Kuzuri Keori weave it with "spirit".
This is a series in which Mr. Yamauchi challenged the limits of Mr. Keori Kuzuri.
It seems that the surface is almost not processed, but when it comes to this, it repels water and does not wrinkle at all.
Moreover, it is fairly lightweight, the fabric has depth, and it has a shine, so there is nothing to say.
But inevitably, spots appeared here and there.
It seems that this was not aimed at, but because it is an ultra special fabric, Momantai.
Here is a microscopic picture of this fabric.
You can see that there are no gaps between the threads at all, and the two-ply threads are very neat.
It's rough, but you can clearly see the high quality.
I say "wool plain weave", but most of the wool is "twill weave" such as gabardine.
That's why the drape is strong or soft.
This in comparison.
"Twill" wool.
Because it is a black fabric, the light of the microscope is reflected, so please grasp the atmosphere. in the atmosphere.
Worsted wool twill (twill weave), which is said to be of high quality.
On the other hand, this time.
I'm shooting at the same magnification, but I think it looks completely different.
The number of stitches where the warp and weft intersect is completely different, and you can see that the stitches are tightly packed.
Expand further.
wool twill.
Yamauchi this time.
It looks completely different on the surface.
Moreover, there is almost no processing on the fabric.
Materials, threads, weaving density and technology to realize it. It's the fabric made with this element.
Great Shilomono.
Yamauchi
Plain weave limit density no mulesing wool shirt
material _ nomulesing wool SUPER140s
color_black khaki
size_2,3,5
And this is the same fabric shirt.
It's a stand collar type.
Fabric touch and appearance that cannot be achieved with cotton shirts.
This sewing level is perfect for fabrics that are easy to tingle when sewing and are very difficult to sew.
Two sleeves of course.
A shirt that coexists with excellent edge stitching and bag stitching.
It's a hyper-level sewing technique for fabrics that draws you into that depth that you've never felt before.
There is no tingling sensation at all.
It's an on-parade of stitchwork that doesn't lose to the strong fabric, so please look at it as if you were licking the real thing.
Sewing is by "Aiko Minoh".
and,
Yamauchi
Plain Weave Limit Density No Mule Thing Wool One-tuck Slim Pants
material _ nomulesing wool SUPER140s
color_black khaki
size_2,3
Third.
Slim trousers with one-tuck arrangement.
It is a specification that you can feel plenty of stitch work that appears on the surface like a jacket or shirt.
The same thick sewing thread is used for the jacket, shirt, and pants.
The top and bottom stitches on the top and bottom of the waistband are perfect, and the bottom part is made of this fabric to create belt loops.
Also, Yamauchi's belt loops are gross.
Normally, a metal fitting called a trumpet is attached to a sewing machine that is set up to sew belt loops, and it is simply sewn, but Yamauchi does not do that.
Carefully and neatly attach the interlining, and then fold it neatly with an iron.
On top of that, the belt loop is sewn twice.
Then cut it to the belt loop setting and put an overlock on the very narrow end of the belt loop.
That's how Yamauchi's specification belt loops can finally be attached.
It looks like a tight dough.
Hem festival.
Can be hemmed.
Excella zipper on this water buffalo button.
It's a Marvel specification.
The sewing person is "Hiroko Horiuchi".
This plain weave limit density series is very strong, and this sewing specification.
Feel free to use it as heavy as possible.
This is the last one.
Yamauchi
Salted cotton linen shirt
face material _ cotton 50%, linen 50%
linning material _ cotton 55%, cupro 45%
color_olive
size_2,3,4,5
Yamauchi
Salted cotton linen shirt
face material _ cotton 50%, linen 50%
linning material _ cotton 55%, cupro 45%
color _ azuki
size_2,3,4,5
Appeared after a long time.
This shirt can be said to be the face of Yamauchi.
A salt-shrinking shirt that was used for Japanese clothing.
Nowadays, salt shrinking is sometimes used to improve the surface texture of the fabric, but most of it is salt shrinking, which involves spraying salt shrink liquid on the fabric.
However, this shirt is salt-shrinked by hand pickling.
That's why it's shrunk a lot more than the original amount of dough.
As a result, the fabric shrinks tremendously, creating wrinkles that are unique to this fabric, and in addition, the shirt has a much deeper color.
I use the amount of fabric for 3.5 normal shirts.
The Plain Weave Limited Density Series I mentioned earlier was made of wool, so the surface of the fabric had a strong luster, and it was a slightly tight-fitting type of clothing, so the stitches were exposed to neutralize it. , The salt-shrinking linen shirt has wrinkles and has a strong casual impression, so there are almost no stitches on the front.
The new product has natural wrinkles due to salt shrinkage, but it still has a flat impression.
So I hope you wash it a lot.
By washing, the wrinkles will become more three-dimensional, and the outer material will not shrink any more, but the cotton cupra of the full lining will shrink and the body will feel better.
I'm still wearing a salt-shrunk linen shirt that's been washed about 500 million times, but the wrinkles from the salt-shrunk haven't gone away, and it's much more comfortable than when it was brand new.
It's amazing. this.
And anyway, this is it.
Fully lined.
I'm making more than a shirt.
Piping on the shoulders and two sleeves.
The cuffs are also this specification.
Sewn by "Mizude Chiyoko".
Mizude sews not only Yamauchi's but also Tilt The Authentics shirts.
It's fully lined, so it may still be hot during the day, but it's a very suitable shirt for the future.
It's best to wash it and get a lot of bulge out and wear it.
If you like it, please take a look.
