AUBETT has been working with us since the debut of the 2020AW season, thankfully.
Well, at that time I was aiming for an emotionally narrow zone of just one type of pants, but this season I'm lining up the collection with more variations.
Shirts, pants, jackets, T-shirts and polo shirts are planned from now on.
However, I haven't posted it on this blog or on Instagram, so I thought it would be nice if people could see it at the store, and I didn't have to say that I was doing AUBETT until this timing.
So, this time.
The time has come.
AUBETT's SS season, no, I saw it at the exhibition, regardless of whether it was handled or not, the 2021 SS collection of all brands stuck in my heart the most.
I've seen, analyzed, and worn quite a few clothes, but even so, it was my first encounter with them.
Or rather, there is no resemblance. This feeling.
I think that this is suitable for saying "original fabric".
It was about 7 months ago when I first saw the fabric, and I still vividly remember how my heart throbbed at that time.
It's a phrase I've written many times in this blog, but
A dramatic encounter that comes when you are "overwhelmingly seeking".
I was able to prepare such clothes again.
The astonishing quality of the fabric, and the vector directed using it.
There is still a lot of potential for clothes.
There shouldn't be anyone who doesn't feel like wearing this.
If you like the look and color.
Or rather, I'm writing this because I want to deliver this feeling that I experienced myself to everyone's hearts.
That's it.
AUBETT
BAGGY TROUSER
composition_SILK/COTTON DOUBLE CLOTH
material _ COTTON 58%, SILK 42%
color_CYPRESS
size_S,M,L
It is the same type of pants that we dealt with in the 2020AW season.
Well, strictly speaking, the initial length setting is extended.
It's pants, but as I mentioned earlier, the fabric used for it is AUBETT's original fabric.
As mentioned above, the blend ratio is 58% cotton and 42% silk.
Well, the mixed ratio display is determined by the weight of the material in relation to the whole, so it doesn't show the percentage that occupies the whole area.
this fabric.
Cotton for the warp.
Silk on the weft.
is used.
This is the fabric table.
This is the back of the fabric.
As you can see, the color of the fabric on the front and back is different.
yes.
It means double face.
The top is the back and the bottom is the front fabric.
Appeared here. microscope.
This is the "front" of the fabric magnified with a microscope.
And this is the "back" of the fabric.
The warp threads running in both vertical directions are cotton.
I wonder if I should say beige thread.
It's so beautiful this fabric.
In terms of warp cotton, 80 count two-ply yarn.
In other words, two 80-count cotton threads are twisted and docked to form a single warp.
In the first place, the 80th in pants is quite thin.
When it comes to denim, it's completely different because it's like 7th place. (The lower the number, the thicker the thread.)
But the 80-count thin cotton is two-ply yarn, so it's strong because it's made of two threads. Please rest assured.
And this cotton thread.
"Yarn-dyed" compact yarn that is dyed at the yarn stage.
What is that?
In the process of dyeing to dye the fabric, there are “yarn dyeing” and “post dyeing”, but “yarn dyeing” is more expensive, but it is a high-spec product that retains the texture of the material. color can be achieved.
That's why "compact yarn" removes the fluff that is inevitably born when cotton yarn is made, and makes the surface of the yarn beautiful and comfortable against the skin. That thing.
There is a reason for this thin, smooth, 80-count two-ply warp that makes the best use of the characteristics of the fiber.
Because the weft is silk.
In a microscope photograph of the surface of the silk and fabric, the silk thread is a "black thread" that looks slightly curly.
This is silk.
"Raw silk".
There are various stages in silk, but the silk that appears on the surface of the fabric uses the state of raw silk.
On the other hand, the back side of the fabric.
This is "silk spinning".
I wrote about silk spinning on this blog when I introduced MOTHER HAND artisan's silk spinning knit, and when I made a silk long T-shirt with CATHEDRAL, so check it out.
If you find it difficult to look at my past blogs, I'm happy if you think "Silk is really dangerous".
Because two types of silk are used in one fabric, even if the material is the same silk, the fiber stage is different, so when you zoom in, the weft threads look different.
The "raw silk" silk that is exposed on the surface looks wild because it is just a cocoon made from the silk spewed by the silkworm and is not refined.
This fabric has a double face, and the raw silk that appears on the front side also plays an important role as a binding thread, which is a binding role to join the fabric on the back side.
Well, what's important here is
Yarn dyeing, which I touched on earlier when I was talking about warp cotton.
According to Mr. Sugihara of AUBETT, in order to bring out the color of CYPRESS, he thought about how to achieve this coloring with this combination of fibers.
Each material has its own characteristics, and the structure and main components are also different.
Therefore, in order to successfully dye two types of materials, cotton and silk, he came up with the idea of “two-bath dyeing”.
"Two bath dyeing" is classified as piece dyeing,
Soak in the bathtub twice. I wonder if it's easy to understand if you think like me.
It seems that he thought about dyeing the fabric with a dye that is suitable for dyeing cotton for the first time and a dye that is suitable for dyeing silk for the second time.
That would be more rational than yarn dyeing, and it was convenient in many ways, but it was difficult to achieve AUBETT's goal of 100% coloring.
Therefore, in order to properly realize the nuances of this color, he chose to "yarn-dye" the thread before weaving it into the fabric.
Yarn dyeing is more technically necessary and takes more time.
By the way, what AUBETT is doing this time is “Kasezome”, which is a type of yarn dyeing, so the quality is even higher.
Well, if I talk about shackle dyeing, it gets complicated again, so that's for next time.
That would inevitably lead to a higher price, but I did my best to bring out the "AUBETT quality" that Mr. Sugihara envisioned.
So, why did you aim for this color?
"Colors that stand up even after being worn for many years"
Because I wanted to create
These pants are made of this fabric, and because the quality of the material is so high, they look very dress-like, so to speak, so-called elegant, but at first.
However, it wasn't made with the aim of making those beautiful trousers.
That's great.
High-quality raw materials collected from all over the world are shaped with advanced technology to create the finest products.
Sugihara-san and everyone on the Orbett team will get angry if I say something too weird, so I'm sorry, but what struck me about these pants was that they weren't brand new.
The points are low for new items, and the more you wear them, the more points you get.
I spoke with Mr. Sugihara and the AUBETT team at the exhibition, saw these pants made of this fabric, and after wearing them,
Because I could imagine "a wonderful figure ahead" of these pants.
80 twin compact yarns, two types of silk, their density, colors, etc.
There are various elements that make up these pants, but I felt that all of them came together and became a specialty trouser when used and worn over time.
So, actually, it's been more than a month since these pants arrived at our shop.
I've had it in stock for a long time.
From the beginning of 2021, I will be wearing NEAT's bespoke denim every day for two full months, and will release it at the end of February, and it will be sold out.
And I've been wearing these AUBETT pants every day since early March.
That's it.
I wash it by hand once, understand what it looks like when it gets wet, and then dive in the washing machine twice.
When I was on a business trip, I ate a salad I bought at a convenience store while wearing this at the hotel, and there were places where the mentaiko dressing was scattered and even a faint stain, but it's momantai.
Everything is worn out, and it's aimed at being established on top of that, so these pants.
And these pants get wrinkled easily.
Or rather, that's what I'm aiming for.
That's why I sometimes use two types of silk.
The ease of wrinkling is a characteristic of silk.
With that in mind, I think it's best to wear it all the time and wash it, rather than keep wearing it in a brand new condition.
If you wash and dry it and wear it as it is, the "bulging natural wrinkles" will create a different look from other pants in the world.
The wrinkles look a little stiff and hard, but they are rather soft and gentle wrinkles. the actual thing.
Also, the original feature of this fabric is the spectacular bulge.
The density that you can instantly feel just by touching it, and the texture of the fabric that cannot be found in fibers other than silk.
This is brand new, but even if you lay it flat, it floats so softly that you won't believe it.
But that's what it means, and it's a high-density fabric with a double face, and it's great for spring and summer.
The reason is because it leaves the skin.
It might be good to think of it as a self-supporting fabric.
In terms of specifications, the belt loop is thick like Dickies work pants.
This also makes sense
A trouser with a beautiful outline when viewed from the front.
But when you look at it from the side, you can see a superb view of the buggy silhouette, which is the opposite of the front view.
These pants have a lot of ingenuity in the pattern manipulation of the buttocks, so the front and side look are completely different.
That's why the name is BAGGY TROUSER.
And the style aims to look like the big-waisted work pants worn by skaters.
So, thick belt loops and sewing specifications.
If you think so, it makes sense.
AUBETT's original double-faced fabric to "make the most of" the shape of the trousers designed with its pattern and details.
It is a trouser that is hyper-meticulously constructed for such a vector.
However, rather than simply imitating the style of work pants,
Double stitching on the outside seams that can be seen from the side when worn, work pants specifications.
However, the hem has been treated with dress trousers, so I simply didn't work.
Also, the Marvel belt is piping processed, and the front buttons and back pocket buttons are all made by genuine water buffalo.
Excela front zipper.
It's obvious how well the trousers are made.
And this is what I always wear.
There are natural wrinkles in the silk, but the outline of the pants is very crisp.
It's a little green, or rather, the coloring is closer to khaki, and it feels like a piece that has somehow withered.
In the brand, besides this cypress color, there was also beige, but beige doesn't look like this, so it's completely cypress.
Also, as for size, S size is just right, but I went up one size and got M.
So, although there is no tuck on the front originally, I make one tuck on each side and wear it.
So, this is the side view of the superb view.
This fabric is very strong and doesn't sag at all.
The protruding buttocks are still in good condition, and I think you can see the unusual three-dimensional effect that fits the curves of the body.
Well, I like the selection of sizes.
I wanted to make the best use of the appearance of the front and sides, so I went up one size and tucked in the excess fabric at the waist, but I think you can enjoy just the right size.
Well, I wrote a lot, but everything is designed to be one shape that AUBETT is aiming for.
I think people who like it will love it.
I can't say that the price is very easy to pick up, but considering the construction of this trouser, the item has overwhelmingly exceeded the price. I think
Also, after washing it, the texture of the fabric may be suitable for summer.
Sizes are S, M, L brand full size development.
The quantity will be limited, but I would be happy if you could see it for those who like it.
It will go on sale in stores from 12:00 on Saturday, April 10th.
