Today, I would like to introduce COMOLI.
This COMOLI will start on the 16th (Sat).
At this timing, there were several deliveries of the lineup that looked ahead to the time when the temperature is higher, but only two at our shop.
Moreover, both series of the same fabric.
I've narrowed it down to this.
And I was really looking forward to this.
For me, these two are the No. 1 in COMOLI this season.
The passing time, the atmosphere of the clothes, this is something special.
Leaving aside the ease of styling, when looking at the "clothes" themselves, I think they are by far the best clothes in the 2022SS.
Well, it may not be something that all humans can wear.
Because when you look closely, the power of clothes is overwhelming.
Fabrics, coloring, shapes, buttons, and sewing specifications.
I think it's clothes that are composed of this transcendental best balance.
These elements are perfectly combined to complete the clothes.
this.
COMOLI
striped blouson
material _ COTTON 70%, LINEN 30%
color_STRIPE
size_1,2,3
COMOLI
striped work jacket
material _ COTTON 70%, LINEN 30%
color_STRIPE
size_1,2,3
These two.
At the timing of this April, it looks like outerwear.
Outer base for the hot season.
Still, the naming of "blouson" and "work jacket" has too much "blank space".
Extremely dangerous.
Well, I think that Mr. Komori of COMOLI makes this as a "collection" in the brand lineup.
Also, what Mr. Komori thinks about brands,
In the spring and summer season, "outer shape" is "as a shirt",
And though it's still early,
For the next autumn/winter season, we will use the "shirt-shaped" item as an "outerwear".
I think I want you to wear it.
That's why I'm making things that eliminate the general idea of how clothes are used.
So, this time's base is an "outer", but it's okay if you think of it as a "shirt" in terms of purpose and function.
A blouson with a base like a G jacket.
A work jacket with a coverall-like base.
The fabric and sewing specifications of these two are almost the same.
If you think big, the length is different.
Then there are the finer details.
First, the dough.
Regarding this, even before the exhibition, I had asked a certain person where the fabric was woven.
Those of you who have visited our shop or read this blog before will know that I am the best "cotton fabric" in Japan. A weaving shop in Kakegawa City, Shizuoka Prefecture.
The fabric woven there.
It looks like hickory has faded after about 50 years.
But the aura it has is dangerous.
A "yarn-dyed" fabric in which the threads are dyed before becoming the fabric in the fabric structure of the herringbone weave.
If the hickory is truly aged, the indigo will migrate into the white areas, resulting in a fuzzy, flat looking fabric.
However, this is a yarn dyed yarn, so the texture of the fabric is very clear.
The contrast between the greenish indigo and the beige thread is very eye-catching, and it has a very old mood.
It looks like the color tone and hickory image, and the human brain inevitably perceives it as a heavy and hard fabric, but the real thing is transcendentally light and soft.
This weaving machine is based on a shuttle loom, so it is possible to create selvedge fabrics with a hand-woven structure, but this aura is not inferior to Italian fabrics in the super-luxury zone.
Well, it's a difficult genre to understand. smile
When you put it on, you can easily imagine that, contrary to the strong mood so far, it is quite light and the wind will pass through.
When exposed to natural light, this much light comes through.
I think everyone can imagine it as a "shirt" that can be put on in the summer.
Let me introduce you to the details.
Both the blouson and the work jacket have sharp collars and are slightly curved.
It is a one-piece collar with no base collar parts or moon waist.
I wonder if it's the same structure as the open collar shirt. To make it easier to understand.
Also, I think the neck is in a low position.
Therefore, it doesn't look hot when you wear it.
In addition to that, once you put it on, it will give you a relaxed mood that doesn't make you feel like you're wearing it.
The collar has Kobasutetchi.
As a result, a flat collar is formed.
Also, the collar itself is pretty perky.
I concentrated all my nerves on my fingertips, touched them, exposed them to the light, and looked at the inside of the collar.
Even if it's included, I think it's a fairly thin adhesive interlining.
It has a thin collar.
So maybe that's why it has a softer impression.
The blouson has one waist pocket, or rather, one pocket that is unique to the G jacket.
No pocket flaps.
After that, the opening of the cuffs is not outward, but inward.
There are four tucks in total, one each for the left and right, front and back, on the hem.
For this reason, the hem fits well, but the back and waist are slightly rounded.
A tuck fastened with a hem band part.
This tuck is only for the blouson, not for the work jacket.
It is a single layer with no lining.
On the front cover, both the left and right sides have shuttle loom fabric edges (selvedge).
The product was washed, and I think the finish was a fairly weak press, so the inside cover selvedge was crumbling.
and a buttonhole.
This is also very dangerous.
In today's outerwear, the buttonhole is so narrow that it is almost impossible to see it anymore.
Buttonholes for fastening buttons exist in any kind of clothes, but for that you need a special sewing machine called a dedicated buttonhole sewing machine.
In the first place, sewing machines were developed after the industrial revolution in England, but before buttonhole sewing machines were distributed, hand-sewn buttonholes were common at that time.
Furthermore, most of the early buttonhole sewing machines were not able to form buttonholes as durable as modern ones, and most of them would easily collapse.
It is an image like these two series of COMOLI this time.
In other words, this COMOLI blouson and work jacket reproduce the nuances of the buttonholes of old clothes.
Can a modern buttonhole sewing machine be able to open such a wide stitch with such a narrow stitch?
The back is also the stitch width and roughness of this hole.
I think it's based on buttonholes for shirts, but there's no doubt that the number of stitches on the sewing machine is adjusted, and I wonder if it's possible to modify it.
And a button that can be combined with it.
This is a button made of resin, but it is made with the assumption that the button, which was white when new, has been sunburned over many years.
The compatibility of this fabric and pikaichi this time.
Furthermore, it is the strongest when combined with the buttonhole mentioned earlier.
A buttonhole with a narrow width and wide stitch spacing that can be slightly peeked through the yellow-tanned button.
So, the base is a fabric like hickory.
This is a divine skill.
It's almost impossible to tell once you've put it on, but the small things about clothes are so important.
A single piece of clothing is made up of various small elements and is completed as an aggregate.
That's why the details, the stitching, and the parts that you don't pay attention to unless you're conscious of it, have a big impact on the clothes.
This is a world you don't understand on Instagram.
For those of you who value that kind of thing, I think you'll appreciate the true fun of clothes when you look at these things.
sleeve.
The cuffs have the same buttons and holes as the body.
The blouson has two sleeves.
pocket.
home base type.
Attention is the pocket mouth.
This is the blouson.
The pocket opening has an inverted triangle stitch on each side.
Do you understand?
This is it.
For the blouson, the stitching on the pocket is sewn with a single lock stitch.
for,
This is a work jacket.
Like the blouson, there are two home base type waist pockets.
However, the sewing specifications are different.
Aren't you just wearing the same pocket in the same way?
This is the pocket opening of the work jacket.
Do you understand?
The pocket opening is a specification of lockstitching + kandome.
And the whole pocket is sewn all around with double stitching.
The blouson is only stitched, and the pocket opening is reinforced with an inverted triangle.
The work jacket is double-stitched and reinforced with kandomé.
this.
double stitch.
Well, to be frank, it doesn't really affect how the coordination of the day changes.
However, I am pursuing the origin of the clothes themselves.
I don't think people know about sewing specifications like that, but Mr. Komori of COMOLI is a person who takes great care of that kind of thing.
COMOLI clothes are made with these elements.
By the way, it may not even matter, but the edge of the fabric inside the pocket is treated with an overlock, which is thoughtful.
Because I think this is a lot of clothes that are cut off.
In the medium to long term, the durability of the pocket will improve.
COMOLI clothes are made with the aim of "clothes that will remain as second-hand clothes 50 years from now."
We don't make tough clothes as a premise, we take care of the changes that can occur naturally, such as rubbing and fraying, and we take care of it properly on the premise. Clothes.
back.
It's the blouson one.
If there is a denim jacket that exists in the brand, there is a cinch back, but this one does not.
One joint enters the center.
This is a coverall type work jacket.
The back is made from a single large piece of fabric with no seams.
And this is a single sleeve specification, and accordingly, there is no opening of the cuffs.
However, the cuff width is designed with a certain amount of room, so it is easy to roll up the sleeves.
back.
This is a short blouson type.
Depending on the part, the sewing specifications are used properly, but basically it is a lockstitch.
However, although it is a specification that I have not seen much, the part of the fold down seam is sewn with a double stitch of lockstitch + chain stitch.
this.
Lockstitch + chain stitch.
The part where the distance from the bodice to the arm is long is like that.
The front and back seams and armholes are folded down with lockstitching.
It's a thin fabric, so it's not full of work feeling, and the sewing specifications are sewn like a shirt.
This sewing is common for blouson and work jacket.
Only the inside of the pocket is overlocked, but basically it is a shirt specification.
It's not that the sewing technique is particularly amazing, but it's made at a level that doesn't spoil the mood of this outfit.
A fabric with a heavy essence that lets the wind through and feels light to wear, but doesn't look like that at all.
The clothes themselves have a very strong atmosphere, so some people may not be able to digest this, but once you wear it, it's yours.
I think that if you wear this, you will be able to feel what the brand is doing as well as COMOLI's 2022SS season.
I think it's very rare for a domestic brand to have such a powerful combination of elements.
Or rather, I feel that there is a mood of overseas craftsmanship rather than the sense of domestic brand clothes. Regarding this.
The reason why our store sells the COMOLI brand is because there are such high-level clothes.
Experience the power of this stripe series.
From now on, if you wear it over a T-shirt and wash it off when you get sweaty, it will be fine.
If you like it, please try it.
