Today, I would like to introduce you to calmlence.
Last time at collection 001, I think the people who came to see it could feel the high level of the clothes.
Although this is a collection that has just debuted as a brand, the calmlens clothes are much different from, for example, the clothes that young designers create in their debut season.
I think you were able to experience for yourself the meaning of Mr. Kumagai's more than 30 years of involvement in making clothes.
And a collection entitled collection 002 has also started.
The product was delivered in January, so I couldn't introduce it on this blog, and it only started in stores, so some people have already gotten their hands on it, but I'd like to introduce it a little bit this time as well.
There are three types: coat, jacket, and pants.
calmlence
BALMACAAN COAT
material _ COTTON 62%,LINEN 20%,SILK 18%
color _ L.BEIGE
size_1,2
First, this.
Balmachan coat.
The mood of Calmlence's clothing is classic men's clothing, so the coat looks relatively authentic.
However, that's not all that Mr. Kumagai of calmlence creates. The awesomeness that definitely exists.
Personally, I don't think there are enough reprints of clothes that have been around for a long time and are nostalgic for everyone.
That's why I don't have much interest in that kind of clothing right now. Me.
I think there have been countless types of spring coats for a long time, but most of the time, when you wear a cotton coat, you wonder what will happen when you wear it, and what awaits you when you put it on. Are you there? You can imagine that.
If I were to express it directly, it would be "within the range of my imagination."
After all, wouldn't it be a shame if something you bought, not just clothes, turned out to be ``just as you imagined''?
You end up saying, "Well, this is what it is."
Therefore, at our store, we want the products that you may be able to purchase to be as far beyond your imagination as possible.
So when I saw this coat by calmlence, I was really shocked.
The look of the clothes themselves allows them to blend in with the cityscape when worn, but don't overshadow them.
The mood when worn by an adult gentleman.
And the quality of the fabrics and details that create it.
This made me feel that the finished coat was unlike anything I had ever encountered before.
An element unique to this calmlence coat.
So it's very good. That's what I think.
In Japan, we have already entered February, and the coming seasons are spring and summer. As for the immediate future.
However, if you own this item, I imagine that you will continue to feel the power and role that clothes in this area have, not just the immediate things.
The warp threads that make up the fabric are all cotton, and the density of the threads is quite high, so the stitch work and details are very eye-catching.
I think the dimensions of the collar, the balance of the opening, the raglan lines of the raglan sleeves, and the angle are wonderful.
I think this will give you a solid feel when you wear it.
And the fabric that makes up this coat.
As mentioned earlier, the warp is cotton.
Cotton is threaded using a method called "double thread alignment."
Twin thread = Single thread (one thread) twisted together. (It feels like one and one are twisted together like a tug of war rope)
"Align" the twin threads.
In other words, two twin threads are placed side by side where a single thread would normally be placed.
So, normally, a total of four cotton strands are used where one thread goes.
On the other hand, the weft.
The wefts are silk and linen.
Silk is spun silk (double thread).
Linen is a single yarn.
The two threads, a double-spun silk thread and a single linen thread, are inserted as weft threads in the place where a single thread would normally be inserted, tightly packed together.
Calmlence's original fabric is woven by the warp and weft.
Nanakoori is a plain weave with very distinct eyes.
This "shakoori" structure is the same as the one we previously had with Yamauchi and Katsuri Keori to make a fabric called Ferreira Mohair.
The eyes stand out very clearly, creating depth and shadows in the fabric, and creating a clear strength of appearance that is not superficial or flimsy.
And do you understand? ?
Silk shines from deep within the tightly packed cotton warp.
Tough, high-quality silk that makes a statement from deep within the matte, tight cotton.
The charm of this fabric will captivate your heart if you like it, and when you wear it, you will be able to experience its originality and obvious quality.
Personally, I had never come across a fabric like this before, so I was really drawn to this fabric, and I think this coat is cool because it makes the most of it.
The fabric for this coat uses double silk threads and single linen threads in the weft, so it has a unique horizontal elasticity.
If you look at it this way, you can see that it has a unique taut appearance even when it's on a hanger.
Well, it's not too much either.
I feel that the fabric really brings out the form of the coat designed by Mr. Kumagai.
You can tell this by looking at the arm.
how is it? ?
These sleeves create a wonderful triangle shape.
I was really looking forward to the shape of this sleeve when it was on a hanger. When you wear it.
The leather buffalo buttons on the cuffs also blend beautifully with the fabric.
And since this coat is made of fabric, the details really stand out.
I think the details that are necessary for clothing also demonstrate their beauty as decoration.
look.
Contrast with the leather buckle on the waist belt.
The belt loops also stand out.
The pockets stand up well and the shading with the stitching is beautiful.
I've said it many times, but the details really stand out.
Typical clothes that are made quickly have such details that are already flattened out even when they are brand new.
It's a completely different level.
The cuffs from earlier.
Even when the front is opened, the front end stands on its own.
This is not just because the fabric is strong.
By the way, as you can see, the front of the coat is a flyback design where no buttons other than the first button are visible from the front, and the fastening of the fabric on the back of the front edge.
Do you understand? ?
It is hand sewn with silk thread.
Well, I think you'll really appreciate the quality of Calmlence's clothes when you wear them, and as a brand, we have to avoid revealing such details too much, even on this blog. , it's already overflowing from my clothes.
In the clothing market, there are brands that promote fashion as being ``elaborate,'' but at Calmlence, that is the basic idea.
What makes it so elaborate is that it's extremely elaborate, and the level of detail and specifications is amazing.
However, Mr. Kumagai of Calmlence must be aware that he is responsible for creating the clothes, and he takes it for granted that he is responsible for creating the clothes with great care and attention to detail. It's all about whether you can create goodness.
When I talk to customers who visit the store, I can clearly feel that Calmlence's clothes are made by professionals.
It is an absolute honor to be able to introduce such things to everyone at our store.
And the back.
The back is a half-back design.
Calmlence is enough to make you drool even when you look at the back.
It goes without saying that the back is also beautiful, and even the back has a really moody feel to it.
It's so cool.
The lining of the body is cotton.
The sleeves are lined with cupro, which is important for smooth sliding.
The structure of the lining greatly supports the functionality, structure, durability, and comfort of the garment.
All areas where the outer material is processed on the back are piping.
On the back of this coat, the outer material, body lining, sleeve lining, and piping intertwine, and the contrast between them is also beautiful.
I think it's best for an adult man to wear a coat like this, with a bit of power and a sense of casual wear.
I think it's better to wear loose clothes.
And next.
calmlence
SACK COAT
material_WOOL 56%,SILK 44%
color _ D.BROWN
size_1,2,3
calmlence
TRIPLE PLEATS WIDE TAPERED TROUSER
material_WOOL 56%,SILK 44%
color _ D.BROWN
size_1,2,3
Next is this.
jacket, pants.
Both are made from the same fabric.
Before I introduce it on this blog, I would like to recommend it to those who like it or who might like it, but the jacket is already in stock in size 1 and the pants in size 2. Let me introduce each of them a little bit.
First, the fabric.
this.
This fabric is used for jackets and pants.
Super mood.
First of all, as mentioned above, the blend ratio is 56% wool and 44% silk.
Silk for the warp. The weft is wool.
The warp silk is a double thread of "spun silk" just like the previous coat.
The wool used for the weft is a double strand of "worsted" wool that is as fine as spun silk and has a very smooth surface.
You can't really tell from the photo.
In real life, it has an amazing shine that makes you say, "Wow!"
In addition to D.BROWN, which we carry in our store, the brand also had black fabrics, but I thought that this wine red-like color could not be made into clothes without calmlence. , available only at D.BROWN.
Even though it's called D.BROWN, I think it's probably easier to imagine wine red or bordeaux.
The silk of the warp yarn is black.
The wool of the weft has a reddish color.
As mentioned earlier, the real thing is incredibly shiny and has an overwhelming sense of luxury.
Normally, worsted wool has a shine, but the black silk of the warp threads shines extraordinarily.
However, because it shines in black, the way it shines has a unique depth to it.
In addition to that, the reddish wool has a soft luster.
However, both are thin threads and the fabric itself is lightweight.
On top of that, he washed the fabric, and finally, Mr. Kumagai washed the product himself.
By applying this, an additional texture is created in addition to the profound shine, giving the fabric a superhuman mood.
If you haven't seen it yet, please look forward to it.
The lapel of the jacket has a calmlence design that can be used as a stand collar.
The front has 4 buttons.
Like the coat, it has wild buffalo buttons with leather attached.
Due to the nature of the jacket's four buttonholes on the front, the bottom buttonhole cannot be inserted with a knife and is not pierced, although it may be overlocked.
Basically, the bottom button of a jacket should not be fastened.
Along with that principle, it is not open from the beginning.
The cuffs also have 4 buttons.
Chamlence has a style in which the buttons on the cuffs overlap slightly.
I don't think it's necessary to say anything, but of course this is the main face, so I'll open it.
There is no padding on the shoulders, but the fabric on the inside of the body and armholes is sewn onto the sleeves.
This means that the seam allowance is on the sleeve side.
As a result, the sleeves are higher than the body, although the style is not as sharp as the shoulder pads.
This is called sleeve height.
I think that this type of jacket has a natural and soft feel without shoulder pads, and the sleeves are neatly attached, which are necessary conditions for an adult gentleman to wear it, so I prefer the best jacket. I think it's a balance.
By the way, there is a center vent in the back.
And the back.
This is also a great mood.
Original flower jacquard lining.
The lining of the sleeves is cupro.
The sewing is also done by hand.
The back has a brass power button.
Attaching the lining to the body of the jacket.
It is designed to be comfortable to wear.
Although the fabric and the clothes themselves have a heavy appearance, I think they are very light to wear.
And trousers.
As the name suggests, this one has TRIPLE PLEATS on the front.
There is no waist band around the waist, so the waist detail is very smart, but these three tucks give Watari a lot of volume.
However, even though it is called wide, the outline of the form and the movement of the fabric during movement are quite noticeable.
The hem is tapered with a very strong taper, but instead of the thick fabric around the thighs moving around carelessly, the outline designed by calmlence continues to appear.
This is amazing.
When it comes to jacket and pants setups, there are many that have an undeniable ``THE group'' feel where the jacket is better and the pants are just an accessory, but with calmlence's pants, the pants are extremely strong.
Of course, the jacket is also quite moody.
Well, I mean, I hope people think it's crazy.
Our store already only has one jacket and two pants in stock. . .
High back design with a V-shaped split at the waist and a high back. with brass cinch back.
Both pockets have beaded edges, but only the left one has a flap.
As mentioned earlier, these pants from Calmlence have a large part around the legs, but they have a sharp design around the waist and buttocks.
That's why I think it looks much more stylish on adults.
The buttons on the zipper front are all leather buffalo horn buttons.
I think the neatly placed Marbelt on the inside is also a reliable specification.
back.
The outer material is light enough, but there is also a thin cupro lining.
It doesn't make me feel unusually hot, but it helps support the thin outer material from the inside.
The above lineup is collection 002 and is currently arriving at our store.
The coming seasons are spring and summer, and I think these clothes are not just light and airy, but also have a calm style and a quality that you can trust.
Please take a look if you like.