Today, I think I can introduce a good brand to you all.
calmlence.
It has been displayed in stores for a while, but it is a brand that started with this fall/winter season.
Although it is a debut brand, it is completely different from the typical "debut brand."
The designer is Kazuyuki Kumagai.
Many people probably know him as the founding designer of ATTACHMENT, which has been representative of Japan since the 2000s and can be considered a brand that created an era.
My impression is that the Attachment brand is a globally recognized brand that represents Japan.
I think that because it is a brand that is known worldwide, it has a very large scale and has continued to release spectacular collections.
Mr. Kumagai, the founder and the designer of the attachments at the time, had a career in the clothing industry for over 30 years, and his name is probably well known.
However, one day, an unexpected news came to us, and we decided to carry the clothes made by Mr. Kumagai at our store and introduce them to everyone.
A few years ago, Mr. Kumagai decided to leave ATTACHMENT, which has led the way since its founding, and take on a new project as the culmination of his career.
That is "calmlence".
Because the number of people involved is large, and because he is a designer who has created an era, he has started a brand that is not flashy, but a culmination of putting his heart and soul into making each piece of clothing.
Because this is a project to create such clothes, in order to distance itself from the unexpectedly accelerating trends in the fashion industry, the brand does not provide any information that would be "salesy". Apparently they have decided to only sell the product at a limited number of stores in Japan and around the world.
I think this idea is very well reflected in the name of the brand.
"calmlence".
"calm" = "calm/calm"
"silence" = "silence"
A coined word that combines these two words.
"calmlence" = "calm calm"
means.
When I look at calmlence's clothes, I can really feel that Mr. Kumagai has put his thoughts into them.
Although the clothes are gentle and quiet, there is definitely a "strength" in the clothes.
The world is full of clothes, but when you look at the clothes at Calmlence, you can clearly see that they are made by professionals. lol
I think this type of clothing doesn't really exist in Japan today.
I really get the feeling that Kumagai is the only one who can create clothes that can't be found anywhere else.
When I was an attachment designer, I had only seen it as a consumer, but now I am very honored to be able to introduce it to you as a store that carries it.
The clothes are made by a designer on Kumagai's level, so to be honest, all of them are of great quality.
However, as I mentioned earlier, brands do not communicate information in words or letters in order to distance themselves from the astonishing consumption speed of the current fashion industry.
So, I don't know what to write on this blog. That's what I thought.
There's a lot to be said for the level of fabric and stitching, and to be honest, if we were to compete with the major clothing brands in the world based on specs, we'd definitely win by far.
It's quiet, but it gives off an aura that's completely different from other clothes, and it's an incredibly strong piece of clothing.
Every single one of them is like that.
But, well, let me introduce myself a little bit.
calmlence
SACK COAT
fabric _ W/KEMP/Li KASURI GABARDINE
material_WOOL 75%,LINEN 15%,KEMP 7%,NYLON 3%
color_BLACK
size_1,2,3
*Size 3 is sold out
First of all, this.
SACK COAT.
At Calmlence, all of the fabrics are not ready-made, but are original fabrics made at a weaving shop with which Mr. Kumagai has a relationship.
In the first place, all the fabrics are very complex and have an amazing atmosphere, but how do you make them into clothes? That also feels like an overwhelming level.
As the name suggests, this fabric is an expression of Kasuri, but it is not a plain weave, but a twill weave.
That alone gives it a multi-layered look.
The materials are made from wool raw materials and short, thick Kempi wool used in tweed etc. as woolen yarn, and the yarn is additionally twisted (twisting the threads) to create the unique bounce of Kempi wool. A thread with a texture.
And it seems that it is a fabric that is woven with linen and arranged randomly.
Due to the bulge unique to woolen yarn and the additional twisting, even just looking at the texture of the fabric, you can feel both the bulge and the tightness of the thread, and the expression of the kasuri and the bounce of the kempi are wonderful. It's a fabric that makes you feel.
At Calmlence, all of the original fabrics are subjected to "fabric washing," and after they are sewn and finished, Mr. Kumagai himself washes the products.
This not only brings out the texture of the fabric even more, but Mr. Kumagai also said that he wanted to put his own hand in all the clothes. So I guess that's what I'm doing.
Since it's a SACK COAT, it has a very classic mood as a base.
It has the air of an old European jacket, but that's not all.
THE Adult Han clothes.
It can be used as a stand using the included hook, and of course you can also wear it with a tailored collar by folding back the lapel.
I think the balance around the collar, such as the lapel width, is also very well done.
The front has a line where the front edge gently escapes outward.
The buttons are buffalo buttons with leather. This button is quite expensive. lol
But a good button.
I think the expression and thick texture, which looks like it was just carved out of a water buffalo horn, goes perfectly with calmlence's clothes.
Parts and leather buffalo buttons for stand collar use.
Both are carefully made.
There is no padding around the shoulders.
However, it has a soft interlining so that it rests properly on the shoulder when worn.
Regarding the sleeves, I think the seam allowance is pushed towards the sleeve side, so the sleeves are designed to be high.
The shoulder area is not excessive, it feels natural and soft, but I think it has a proper shoulder area.
Like the front, the sleeves also feature four leather buffalo buttons.
Of course it will open.
The back of the flap of the waist pocket has a jacquard pattern made from original fabric.
And the back.
If you take a look at it, you'll instantly realize that this jacket has been carefully crafted.
Although it has an unlined back, there are also shirts made of this fabric in the brand's collection.
It is a cut jacquard fabric with cupro warp, rayon weft, and polyester pattern.
I think you'll understand that the back side has a different mood, but if you see the actual item, you'll notice that the lining has been sewn very carefully.
I didn't take any photos, but this jacket has been designed with great care, right down to the inside.
Even the edges of the lining fabric have been properly processed.
Nowadays, when you get to Kumagai-san's level, it's only natural that things like that are done.
When I look at the specifications of these kinds of clothes, I feel very at ease with myself and my customers, and the people who receive them can continue wearing them without any concerns.
It's common sense to make everything right down to the inside, but that's not the case with today's mainstream clothing.
I think there is definitely a difference in clothing in places like this.
Therefore, if you have it in your hands, please use it with utmost trust.
If you are interested, you can turn the clothes upside down and then turn them over again. lol
Because it's very elaborate.
calmlence
TRIPLE PLEATED WIDE TAPERED TROUSER
fabric _ W/KEMP/Li KASURI GABARDINE
material_WOOL 75%,LINEN 15%,KEMP 7%,NYLON 3%
color_BLACK
size_1,2,3
*Size 3 is sold out
This is also a trousers made of the same fabric as the sack coat.
I think that many pants that are worn under a jacket end up being attached to the jacket, but this is not the case at all.
It can be used as a set or as a single item, but it gives off a great aura.
In a way, when you look at these pants, you can clearly feel the mood of calmlence.
In terms of specifications, these pants have a waist design that extends all the way to the top without a waist belt.
As the name suggests, the front has 3 tucks, and the back endpaper is neatly finished.
The back has a high back and cinch design for a classic mood.
The buttons around the waist are all leather buffalo buttons, just like the previous jacket.
When you look at the back, you can clearly see that it has been made to fit autumn and winter specifications.
The fabric itself is thick and heavy, so I think you can wear it a lot in cold weather.
I think it sets a really good mood.
She is 167cm tall and has recently lost weight to 50kg. lol
So size 1.
Both the jacket and pants have some space, but the fit of both is not loose at all.
However, it is not a tight size.
I feel like it's sized properly for adult men.
It depends on your physique, but size 2 is best for people up to around 170 cm.
The pants have 3 tucks, and there is enough around the waist, but it feels like they are tapering rapidly.
As I said earlier, these pants alone have the power to instantly create a style, so you'll be surprised when you try them on.
I believe that the strength of the fabric, the pattern design, and the balance with the specifications are all matched at an extremely high level.
calmlence
REGULAR COLLAR SHIRT
fabric _ Si/C DOBBY STRIPE TYPEWRITER
material _ COTTON 69%, SILK 31%
color_RED STRIPE
size_1,2,3
And next, this.
This time, I wanted to know about calmlence's shirt, so I'm wearing this one.
After that, I was really impressed.
The reason why I wanted to wear this shirt in the first place is because of this fabric.
If you look at the blend ratio, it's 69% cotton and 31% silk, which is roughly 7:3.
It's a bit of an odd mix, but I don't think there's anything too unusual about it.
But, it's completely different. Completely.
I like fabrics a little more than the average person, but the fabrics for shirts that we have carried in our store have mainly come from Enshu, sometimes Bishu, Nishiwaki, and Omi. was.
However, this is not a production area like that.
That is silk.
I've written a lot about silk so far, so I'll skip it because it's a bit of a hassle...
I remember that all the silk shirt fabrics I've ever seen were spun silk, such as ``silk spun yarn'' or ``silk spun pongee yarn.''
But this is filament silk.
filament!
Because it is raw silk that is in the form of filaments, it is a type of material that cannot be woven in the regions that we have introduced in our store so far. This fabric.
When it is made into clothes, it is made of striped fabric, the warp is cotton, and the weft is raw silk.
However, at the weaving stage, raw silk is set on the warp and cotton is placed on the weft, so there is a border at the fabric stage.
Yes, I have never heard of being able to set filament silk as the warp threads of a loom in any of the production areas that we have introduced in our shop.
So I was really interested. This fabric.
The mood of the stripes is completely different from other striped shirts, and from the moment I saw it for the first time, it grabbed my heart and I couldn't get it out of my head.
So, I've been wearing it ever since the moment it was delivered to me.
I really like it.
I don't think the photo can convey it...
The shimmering luster that is unique to raw filament silk from a small area is amazing.
Actually, I was planning to do a microscope, but due to various circumstances lately, I haven't been able to do it, so I'm trying to solve this problem as soon as possible. lol
this.
As the name suggests, it's a regular collar shirt, but there are a lot of things that aren't regular.
If I write too much about it, it will become like a spec battle, so I'm sorry, but it's a shirt that definitely, definitely, definitely gives you a sense of awesomeness when you wear it. lol
Yoke pattern matched.
The shirt fabric itself is raw silk, so it is not thick.
I guess it's easier to imagine that it's extremely suitable for wearing right now as an outer shirt.
Also, recently, I've been seeing some sales pitches about shirts that refer to the interlining material of the shirts as "plush interlining" in clothing introductions at stores, and every time I see that, I'm confused. Yes, no, no, no, no, I think.
How many people in the shop have ever seen interlining? That's what it feels like.
What's the point of just writing the words, thinking you understand something you've never seen? Well, I think it depends on the style of the store.
Why did I go to a sewing factory to sew clothes before I started working at CASANOVA?
Well, by the way, this calmlence shirt is a "plush core". lol
The fabric is made of filament and thin cotton, and in addition, it looks like the fabric has a little bit of salt shrinkage.
And since we also wash the product, I think that this will inevitably happen to the interlining at the design stage.
So, as you use it, if the direction of the collar becomes unrecognizable and it bulges out and becomes fluffy, you've reached your goal.
Compared to the previous jacket, the size balance is more spacious.
The length is long and the width is roomy, but I think this shirt has a unique balance.
I really like it along with the fabric.
The base of this fabric is beige, giving it an old-fashioned feel, but black and red colored threads are inserted into it.
It's hard to tell from the photo though.
To match this, the buttons are made of brown butterfly shell.
As you can see, the cufflinks are round with no corners.
calmlence
REGULAR COLLAR SHIRT
fabric _ Si/C DOBBY STRIPE TYPEWRITER
material _ COTTON 69%, SILK 31%
color_BLUE STRIPE
size_1,2,3
And this.
While the previous one was RED STRIPE, this one is BLUE STRIPE.
The mixture ratio is the same and the colors are different, but the striped patterns are different.
Mr. Kumagai said that both the RED STRIPE and BLUE STRIPE were inspired by the lining of old jackets, rather than the usual striped shirts.
Both of them have a classic striped pattern that I've seen before, but as for the shirts, I've never seen a striped shirt of this genre.
Moreover, this design balance, this specification.
Stunning shirt.
By the way, both RED STRIPE and BLUE STRIPE have a beige base, but RED STRIPE has a darker beige.
I think RED STRIPE has a more old-fashioned feel.
BLUE STRIPE has a slightly thicker blue pitch.
The length is long.
I have extremely short hands, so the sleeves are long for me, but I think it's a good length in general.
Well, I've already washed this about three times.
I washed it two more times after this photo was taken, so there aren't any major changes in this photo.
However, I think the collar and cuffs are a little softer than when they were new.
I usually roll up my sleeves, so the cuffs have a nice curve. lol
Since it's washed and worn, the collar also has an asymmetrical curve. Thanks to the plush core.
It would be best if the collar could be blown up by the wind.
calmlence
SINGLE PLEATED WIDE PANTS
fabric _ W/Li/C RANDOM HERRINGBONE STRIPE
material_WOOL 37%,LINEN 37%,COTTON 26%
color_BLACK
size_1,2,3
And this is the last thing I will introduce today.
Actually, there was also a WORKERS GILET made of Kempi wool Kasuri fabric, but it sold out quickly, so this is the last pair of pants I have today.
These pants have a strong classical mood with a strong calmlence, and have a different form from the 3-tuck pants mentioned earlier.
The fabric has a random herringbone pattern.
This herringbone stripe is extremely complex and shows the extraordinary blending ratio.
As for the fabric, the warp is cotton and linen top (color varies depending on the weave) thread.
The weft is made of wool, but the fabric is made of strongly twisted wool, which is a combination of worsted and twisted yarn.
It has a nice depth of color and appearance, but I was surprised at how heavy the fabric is despite being made of this material.
Compared to cotton linen, I imagine that worsted wool would create a relatively light fabric, but this fabric feels quite heavy.
I think you are using a considerable amount of thread.
I think these pants will be great for the upcoming season.
These pants also have a waist design that continues from the body.
It's a relatively deep one-tuck design.
Both back pockets have a waist belt with side adjustment on both sides.
I feel that all of calmlence's clothes have a unique "sex appeal" to them, and when it comes to pants, I think the lack of a waist belt part is one of the elements that gives off that appeal. .
All of the clothes have the look of calmlence, so I think it's an amazing skill to be able to create such a unified look.
And these pants are also lined.
It also prevents the shirt from losing its shape, and even though I'm wearing a lot of shirts right now, I'm starting to realize that they all have a lot of toughness to them.
This is also size 1 as before.
It also has a thicker outline, so the balance is similar to how the fabric rests on the shoe.
As mentioned earlier, some items are already sold out, but we hope you will be able to experience Kumagai-san's passion for making clothes.
I would say that this is the culmination of all the work I have accumulated over my 30+ year career in the clothing industry.
It's quiet, but there's a definite strength to each piece, and I can feel that Mr. Kumagai himself has created the pieces to the best of his ability.
I think it's very highly concentrated clothing.
If you like it, try experiencing the world of calmlence clothing.