Today, I'd like to introduce you to calmlence.
Collection 003.
This is the third collection.
Starting on Saturday, August 3rd.
Most of the items that will be sold in our store from this third collection will be introduced at this time.
So, everyone, please look forward to it with high expectations.
Starting Saturday, August 3rd, we will be offering a total of 10 variations, including different colors.
This time, ahead of the start of the season, I will be writing a two-part blog post.
Today it's a jacket and shirt.
Let me introduce it to you.
Calmness
HUNTING JACKET
material _ WOOL 53%, SILK 42%, POLYURETHANE 5%
color _ DARK BROWN
size_1,2,3
Calmness
HUNTING JACKET
material _ WOOL 53%, SILK 42%, POLYURETHANE 5%
color _ BLACK
size_1,2,3
First, this.
Calmlence has been creating and developing all of its products using original fabrics since the brand's first season, collection 001.
However, this is "dead stock" from a weaver in Enshu (an area of Shizuoka prefecture).
This is awesome deadstock corduroy discovered by Kumagai, a great Japanese legend with over 30 years of experience in clothing design.
Enshu is a producer of cotton textiles, but this corduroy is amazing.
A corduroy fabric that contains less than 1% cotton .
The warp thread is wool.
The weft thread is silk.
It is made of that material, corduroy.
The moment I saw this fabric, I was shaking with excitement. It was so amazing!
this.
I don't know whether all of you looking at this blog are on a PC or a smartphone, but I can't help but rub my face against the screen when I look at it.
The corduroy is so beautiful, with its shiny fuzz.
According to Kumagai, when he first discovered this corduroy at the weaver's shop, it was shining brightly.
Apparently the fabric was so shiny that it was difficult for anyone to cook with it, and so it ended up lying dormant as dead stock.
As mentioned above, up until now Kumagai has been making all of his clothes for calmlence using original fabrics.
However, Kumagai was attracted to this silk wool corduroy and began to think about how he could create it.
Then, at the fabric stage, they washed it extremely hard, which "destroyed" the brilliant shine of the corduroy.
The corduroy used in this calmlence has a distinctive ridged texture that is made of "silk".
By applying a very strong "fabric wash", the texture of the silk fibres is destroyed and dulled, causing them to reflect light in a diffuse manner with irregular fuzziness.
It is, quite simply, magnificent.
This is something to see.
No, it's definitely something you should see.
This is combined with the ``buffalo leather buttons'' used by calmlence.
I just wonder who else could create this contrast.
In the photo, the dark brown color is shown, but the brown color is emphasized quite a bit.
The real thing is more purple.
This corduroy isn't at all unfashionable or cozy.
She looks about 800 million times sexier than in the photos.
Also, the texture and the density of the fabric are definitely noticeable.
To put it in perspective, you can feel its quality even when wearing rubber gloves.
The brand offered it in two colors, but the moment I saw it, I thought I would probably never see it again.
Kumagai then told us that the fabric is so expensive to develop and produce that it would be difficult to recreate the same item in this day and age.
Well, if you see it in person, I think it's easy for anyone to imagine.
So, without any hesitation, I decided right then and there to carry both colors.
We offer sizes 1 to 3 so that as many people as possible can see the HUNTING JACKET.
The weaver who made this fabric is amazing, but I also think Kumagai from calmlence is truly amazing, being able to prepare it like this.
Seriously, you should check out this HUNTING JACKET. No, calmlence's entire collection.
It features a high neck.
The shape of this neck, the dimensions, the neck room - it's all at an incredible level.
It's not a brand that constantly releases new styles of clothing, but what's more, the quality of the clothes they release is exceptional.
It has a high collar and a body seam that flows down to the back.
Since it has a hunting motif, elbow patches made of the same fabric are placed on it.
There are two front pockets, one on the chest and one at the waist.
This is a round pocket with an asymmetrical shape.
This is a generously sized HUNTING JACKET, so it has a large waist pocket.
There is no opening at the cuffs, but one of the features of calmlence is that it is suitable for wearing with the sleeves rolled up.
As you can see, the lining of the sleeves is made of a fabric (rayon and cotton twill) that Kumagai chose for the purpose.
By the way, the back of the pocket is also lined with white fabric.
This fabric is the same white color as the lining of the sleeves, but it is a slightly lighter cotton twill that doesn't feel cold.
Instead of hammering it down with a sewing machine, it is hand-sewn so that the stitching does not show on the outside of the pocket.
With a normal brand, you might not mind if one stitch was visible at the opening of the pocket, but when it comes to Kumagai's class at calmlence, that's not the case.
Every detail of the design of the clothes is carefully considered, down to whether or not a single stitch will fit.
That's why the finished product is of first class quality.
A designer who once defined an era and was widely acclaimed on a global scale now produces high-quality clothes by himself, in small quantities but with great care.
I think you will be able to really feel that these clothes have been carefully researched and refined.
The back of the button is a brass power button.
It's a part that can be seen when you wear it.
It ensures durability while also creating a mood for the clothes.
This is the back.
The piece features the brand's original flower jacquard fabric, which has been used in the past.
Is there any other brand of clothes that look this cool, even on the back?
In our shop, calmlence and Araki Yuu reign supreme when it comes to behind-the-scenes coolness.
At calmlence, the contrast between the floral jacquard on the outer and inner lining creates a great mood and catches the eye.
However, I don't think it's just the contrast of the fabrics that makes it look cool when turned inside out.
this.
this.
this.
What I want everyone to see is the "separation line" of the fabric.
The fabric changes are very crisp.
It doesn't fall apart at all and you can switch straight away.
What's more, after all of calmlence's clothes are completed, Kumagai himself hand washes each and every piece in his atelier .
Even though the garment has been washed, the seams on the back have not come apart .
In other words, this would not have happened unless it was done by a craftsman with extremely skilled sewing skills.
Washing the clothes once after they are completed gives them a softer feel, but on the other hand, it also reveals the quality of the brand's clothing .
Washing it will remove the makeup.
It is unusual that even when the makeup has been removed, the sharp edges of the fabric are still visible.
That's why I feel that calmlence's clothes boast such hidden coolness.
In addition, the soft lining is hand-sewn to allow for gentle shoulder movement.
And the traditional intricate pocket detail is still there.
Furthermore, when you turn the lining over, you will find that the edge of the lining fabric itself is overlocked, and there are also "thread loops" woven by hand with sewing thread to secure the lining in place.
As a brand, we don't intentionally emphasize the manufacturing aspect, but the fact that so many clothes have been created is certainly due to the accumulation of careful attention to detail and solid manufacturing.
This is black.
The dark brown has a strong hint of purple in the brown, while the black is a deep black with a glossy finish.
Just by leaving the buttons fully open like this and just throwing it on, it creates a really stylish look.
I think the reason why casual wear is possible is because the clothes are made with high quality.
The silk ridges retain their luster even after repeated strong washings.
The amazing thing about corduroy is that it has a wool warp and silk weft.
And when it falls into the hands of Kumagai of calmlence, it is transformed into clothing with an incredible aura.
Finally, I will post a photo of me wearing it so you can see the whole look.
And next.
Calmness
REGULAR COLLAR SHIRT
Material: 69% CUPRO, 31% SILK
color _ NAVY PRINT
size_1,2,3
Calmness
REGULAR COLLAR SHIRT
Material: 69% CUPRO, 31% SILK
color _ RED PRINT
size_1,2,3
A regular collar shirt with a very stylish feel.
In previous collections, calmlence has released shirts with all-over patterns like this one, and each one has a really great vibe to it.
This collection also features the brand's original floral pattern.
This one and...
Here.
Both are not simply different colors, but rather floral patterns with completely different nuances.
And also.
The base fabric is also amazing.
Normally, you don't print at this level...
The warp thread is made of raw silk .
The weft thread is "Cupraspan" .
This is the combination.
Although you may occasionally see shirts containing silk, it's safe to say that you will almost never come across a shirt made from raw silk.
Most shirts containing silk have fabric woven from spun silk or spun silk pongee thread .
The first time I saw a shirt with raw silk as the warp thread was in calmlence's debut season, collection 001.
Silk is a thread spun by insects, and is the only filament fiber (long fiber) among natural fibers and plant fibers.
Usually, for clothing, the long filament silk is cut into shorter pieces, spun into a state called "spun," and then woven.
However, we are using that filament silk as is.
On the other hand, the weft thread is made of cupra, which is classified as a recycled chemical fiber.
All synthetic fibers are filaments (long fibers), but filament cupra is cut into short pieces and used as spun yarn for the weft.
The warp thread is filament yarn and the weft thread is spun yarn.
This combination achieves the unique fabric texture that Kumagai is aiming for.
this.
It has the rich luster that only raw silk can have, as well as a slight weight and dryness.
The filament warp threads and spun weft threads are woven in a plain weave to create a texture that is unlike anything seen anywhere else in the world.
In my opinion, when raw silk is used as the warp thread, it allows its unique "vertical tension" and "drape" to coexist.
Usually, the "stiffness" of a fabric is largely determined by the weft thread, which is strictly speaking called "horizontal tension."
The fabric's "independent nature" becomes apparent.
If it were made with regular silk spun yarn or silk spun pongee yarn, it would be much fluffier.
It's stretched a little bit vertically.
This is amazing.
And then there's Kumagai's super trendy print pattern that goes with it.
This is already the worst.
The outline of the flower is blurred, but it is still strongly present.
Apparently, this nuance was designed and created in great detail.
What's more, although it's almost impossible to tell from the photo, the base parts other than the flower are also dyed in a gradient pattern.
The colours are vibrant and clear, but what makes it more than just an impactful print is the unity between the print itself and the base.
I think you will really get a sense of this if you see the real thing.
On the other hand, this is NAVY PRINT.
This piece features a floral motif drawn in lines with a faded pattern printed on the base.
It really gives off the vibe of the old days.
I think that both of them are completely irreplaceable.
The regular collar has a "floss interlining" that becomes even more comfortable with washing and use.
The upper collar is made up of two pieces of fabric, the outer collar and the inner collar, and a core material is placed inside them to maintain its shape.
Generally, I think that for shirts like this, fusible interlining is often used, which is attached to the back of the collar with glue, but at calmlence, we use a fluffy interlining, which gives the garment a "sweetness" the more it is worn.
This also makes the guitar feel increasingly soft around the neck, giving owners a reason to use it heavily.
Plus...
What's even more amazing about clothing design is this...
do you understand??
The fabric of the lining and the fabric of the collar base have the same pattern.
I don't think anyone would ever wear a shirt like this with the collar up, but with this design, it's so amazing that I'd even want to show it off with the collar up.
These kinds of details, they're not just coincidences.
It cannot be created unless you aim for it intentionally.
I think this is where you really feel how thoroughly they've captured the mood of the clothes.
Rounded cuffs with chamfered corners.
To begin with, this fabric can only be sewn by an extremely skilled craftsman, but no matter how you look at this shirt, it's perfect.
This is also amazing.
The RED PRINT version has brown mother-of-pearl buttons to match the mood of the shirt.
This is so cool.
The NAVY PRINT version features black mother-of-pearl buttons.
I think the mood is really good.
Because the warp thread is silk filament and the weft thread is cupra spun, I think it can be worn indoors even in this season.
If I were outside, it would be so hot that I wouldn't be able to wear anything.
HUNTING JACKET.
It's dark brown, size 1.
It's a bit hard to see because the photo was taken in a dark place, but the silk fur reflects light in all directions when light hits it.
I think it's the perfect jacket with the stand-up collar height and dimensions.
The corduroy ridges are very pronounced, so we think we've created an ultra-class jacket.
And this is black.
If you choose the black version, you will experience a very deep black color.
It feels like a sensual luster is emerging from the deep, deep black.
This is really crazy.
Well, Ultra Peace has arrived, almost at the start of autumn and winter in August.
However, if you like it, I think you won't be able to escape from this HUNTING JACKET.
This jacket was so shocking that I have never forgotten it since I saw it at an exhibition six months ago.
And when the product was completed, Kumagai-san was amazing as expected...
And this one is size 1 too.
NAVY PRINT.
Both the HUNTING JACKET mentioned earlier and this REGULAR COLLAR SHIRT are a perfect match for my Knickerbockers uniform.
And this is size 1 of RED PRINT.
I'll introduce the trousers tomorrow.
I think this will be great for people who like shirts with this kind of feel.
Tomorrow,
We would like to introduce the lineup above.
As mentioned at the beginning, calmlence collection003 will start on Saturday, August 3rd.