Clothes using ZZ strong twisted twill triple weave that we have been announcing the other day.
Thanks to the cooperation of the people involved in this production, we were able to take shape.
There are 3 types of clothes.
Through these clothes, I would like to convey things that have not been communicated until now, and by doing so, I would like people to feel the splendor of clothes that have been made with time and care.
As announced earlier on Instagram, it will be available for sale at stores from 12:00 on Saturday, November 27th.
The period is scheduled from November 27th (Sat) to December 5th (Sun).
On the first day, all four members of the AUBETT team, including Mr. Yoshimura and Mr. Sugihara from AUBETT.
In addition, Mr. Ota from Kaneta Orimono, who made this wonderful fabric possible, will be at the store.
And this time's clothes will be sold as AUBETT's Private (Public) Collection.
"I want to share clothes born from personal connections, relationships, and situations, including their backgrounds. Fun, difficult, beautiful, a collection that is as natural and pure as an I-novel."
A special project with a meaning.
The first opportunity to meet people, such as select shops, brands, and weavers, is "things."
I think that is common not only in the clothing industry, but in all genres.
But we definitely have a "heart", and if you look at the clothes, you can instantly tell if it's in the clothes or not.
And the "heart", which at first felt sympathy, becomes a strong bond by meeting face-to-face over and over again, having a dialogue, and venting disappointments.
By accumulating it, it becomes a stronger common idea, and when you aim for the same thing and work together, the relationship that was initially "work" will change greatly.
When that happens, it becomes clothes with more "heart", and I wanted to create such things together, and not just "sell" them, but to create clothes that are "meaningful" from the bottom of my heart.
That's why I made it together with AUBETT.
As I mentioned earlier, there are three types of clothes.
・AUBETT JACKET
・INVERTED PLEATS OVER COAT
・FOURTEEN DARTS TAPERED TROUSERS
These three.
All of these are completely original clothes made for the Private (Public) Collection.
We have completed clothes that have our "heart" in the fabric and shape.
Private (Public) Collection
AUBETT JACKET
material _ COTTON 46%, WOOL 38%, MOHAIR 16%
color_RED RUST
size _ 3,4,5 ※Sold out
Clothes named "AUBETT JACKET".
This AUBETT JACKET was created with various essences and ways of thinking intricately.
It's the clothes that have been completed over and over and over again over many months, using what I have in my head and the techniques Mr. Sugihara has cultivated.
From the presence or absence of a collar, shape, size, front matching style, body width volume, length, waist pocket, sleeve shape, cuff opening, stitching, number of buttons, etc.
From a state of nothing, to the point where I couldn't think of anything else, we started talking about everything, and finally, we said, "Let's meet tomorrow." , I drew a model, and Mr. Sugihara of AUBETT worked all night to create the toile.
When I met him the next day, I found that my drawing and the toile that Mr. Sugihara had made were very similar.
Or almost together.
My head was in perfect sync.
That's how "AUBETT JACKET" was born.
The shape of the collar is a tailored collar that feels small.
Emphasizing that the collar will return properly even if you wear it for a long time, the pattern is manipulated so that it emerges in three dimensions.
Rather than an authentic tailored color, including the nuances of this fabric, I imagined an adult Han person, and had Mr. Sugihara finish it beautifully from the flowing "blood".
This is the preliminary meeting. "Cut Away Front".
This element was created in conversation with Mr. Sugihara from the start of thinking about this jacket, and was absolutely indispensable.
Instead of a straight, straight-falling front edge, the hem is soft yet strong and bounces outward.
This style is almost non-existent in Japanese clothes, but it is a very classical style that suits the Japanese body type very well.
Mr. Sugihara, who studied under Mr. Stefano Pilati, also made clothes in this style many times.
The waist pocket is an external square patch pocket for a round front and a small tailored collar.
There are flap pockets and double welts that tend to give off a formal nuance, but by setting it to patch pockets, even if it is a tailored color, it is possible to instantly show that kind of clothes. I keep it in my pocket.
However, even patch pockets do not have stitches at the pocket opening.
As a result, it floats on the square.
Also, this pocket is lined.
The body is lined with the same 50% cotton and 50% cupra lining on both the body and sleeve lining, and the same fabric is used on the back of the pockets.
In addition, it is designed so that the edge of the fabric that is cut off or overlocked on the back of the pocket is not visible.
In other words, the outer material and lining of the pocket are sewn inside.
As a result, even after many years of use, the threads will not come out, and the pocket will always function without stress.
this. Pocket side from the surface.
You can't see it at all in the picture because it has edge stitching, but you can see the inner lining from the side of the pocket.
I'm still working on these details.
As mentioned earlier, the pockets are edge stitched, and the stitches visible from the front of the AUBETT JACKET are edge stitched everywhere.
I have discussed this with the AUBETT team many times, but I liked the edge stitch from the beginning. smile
How the stitches look greatly affects how the finished garment looks.
However, the fabric is quite strong, so this was suitable to prevent the stitches from being overpowered.
Due to this sewing specification, the fabric and stitches are very familiar, and I think that strength and beauty coexist.
The collar is made up of multiple parts.
backstyle.
"Shoulder drape" where AUBETT's technology stands out.
One patch on the center back, of course, top stitches, and two sleeves.
Around the shoulders and arms, AUBETT's ability shines.
This is crazy.
The blank space on the body in "Cut Away Front" is the same, but this is all AUBETT.
In the first place, in the case of cut away front clothes, no matter where I look in the world, I have only seen tight-fitting clothes with large darts and shapes at the waist, and I think that is the only kind of clothes that exist. I think
AUBETT's idea of "a drape that puts air between the 'body' and the 'cloth' and creates a 'form'" is beautifully expressed.
I think that this drape appearance is definitely something only AUBETT clothes have.
While there are many flat-structured clothes in the world, AUBETT sticks to "three-dimensional cutting" in everything. this is.
As for the arms, the sleeves around the shoulders look wide when viewed from the side, even though the armholes are not large.
However, when viewed from the front, the arms look clean and sharp.
This is a technique that only AUBETT can create.
And the arm is also shaped as it goes to the cuff.
I was very impressed with this "drape".
And two button design on the cuffs.
Open, of course.
It doesn't make sense if you don't open it, and this AUBETT JACKET, which I will touch on tomorrow, has the sleeves set longer.
In my mind, I'm assuming that you will wear it with the cuffs folded.
I feel like I'm wearing it slippery.
Center hook vent.
The back hem cut is straight.
As mentioned earlier, the lining is 50% cotton and 50% cupra twill lining.
And only the left side has an inner pocket with a single bead.
Four buttons on the front.
Two buttons on the left and right cuffs.
I am taking care of it.
This button, one by one, all have a slightly different expression.
As far as I know, it's a fairly expensive button, but I was overwhelmed by its wonderful texture, its transcendent rarity, and what it did.
I will introduce it later.
Private (Public) Collection
INVERTED PLEATS OVER COAT
material _ COTTON 46%, WOOL 38%, MOHAIR 16%
color_RED RUST
size _ 3,4,5 ※Sold out
A coat with a collar like a bal collar, a large flap, and deep inverted pleats on the back.
This original coat was created with the idea of maximizing the AUBETT "drape" while retaining the classic look of the coat, such as the inverted pleats, the length of the dress, and the shape of the collar.
Compared to a jacket, the length of the garment is longer, so the balance of the collar is balanced against the length of the jacket.
Only one button on the front is exposed.
A curved collar cut instead of a straight one.
And here too, the entire surface is finished with Kobasutetchi.
We discussed the stitch specifications of this coat over and over again, but I still chose the edge stitch.
By sewing the very edges of the fabric, I think that the overall strength of the clothes and the cohesiveness of the fabric came out.
This is also a two-piece sleeve setting like the jacket.
And deep pleats close to the collar.
The deep pleats that go into the back are an essential detail in the traditional overcoat, and one of the Han's longings.
The back side of the collar is also made up of multiple parts, using the direction of the grain of the fabric to prevent it from being flattened.
Of course, the back of the collar is also top stitched.
Inverted pleats have built-in tabs and buttons.
This tab is also composed of two pieces, but the outer material is used on both sides.
Usually, it is customary to glue different fabrics together for this kind of thing, but I use a lot of original fabrics.
That's why I don't rely on it at all, and I make it so that you can feel at ease even in the smallest details.
large flap.
It also consists of two outer layers. And there is a single pocket.
The coat is also filled with the "drapes" created by AUBETT. This is exactly the case around the shoulder.
And this button.
All the buttons attached to the three clothes this time are of the same type.
"Buffalo Ita".
This is entirely a story in the world of making clothes, but there are various types of water buffalo buttons.
Of course, so is the material.
This is dead stock.
Or rather, I can't make it anymore.
Because there is only one craftsman who can make this kind of button even in Japan.
Water buffalo buttons can be divided into two types depending on how they are made.
・Buffalo Tatsu
・Buffalo Ita
These two.
It is said that most of the water buffalo buttons attached to clothes in the world are "water buffalo tatsu".
Water buffalo tatsu = water buffalo cut In other words, it is a button that is used by cutting the horn of a water buffalo into round slices and hollowing it out.
that's common.
On the other hand, "Buffalo Ita".
This is the water buffalo ita = water buffalo board What are you doing?
An old man puts the water buffalo horn into hot water.
Then, when the water buffalo horn becomes soft in hot water, it is split into plates by hand.
Extremely dangerous. Never heard of that.
A button is made by hollowing out a plate-shaped water buffalo that has been split.
This is a very expensive button. smile
Furthermore, the hollowed-out highly transparent buttons are dyed with a dyeing method called "reactive dyeing" that chemically combines with the dye.
In addition, the surface of the button is coated so that the dye does not come off.
Therefore, unlike normal buttons, you can see the fibers of the water buffalo horn, and it has a unique streaky line.
On top of that, because it is dyed, the color of each button is slightly different.
And this button has a lot of color blurring, and there were only a few buttons left now.
The last minute number that can be used up for the total amount of clothes this time.
There are only a few left, and it doesn't look like it's really old, but it's a dead stock item that doesn't know when it was made, so it can't be used in a brand's collection that requires a certain amount of use. you know.
That's why I don't think you'll ever see this button on other clothes.
I love it so much. In particular, the colors are completely different depending on the size, so on the AUBETT JACKET, the buttons on the front and cuffs are different sizes, so inevitably they have buttons of different colors.
So enjoy the difference in the buttons.
You will never find a button of such quality again.
And this coat is half lined.
By making it half lined, we are able to maximize the fluctuation of the large amount of fabric.
This one has a single bead specification made in Odaiba for the inner pocket, giving it a higher grade.
The front is a hiyoku specification, and it follows the old design where you can't see anything other than the first button.
It has a flat wing by applying multiple facing parts on the back of the body.
On top of that, Mr. Sugihara made a detailed design so that the fabric on the back side is slightly hollowed out and the overlapped fabric does not interfere with the front side.
I don't think you can tell from the photos.
Please check the actual product.
As mentioned earlier, the entire coat has edge stitches, but the bottom hem has no stitches.
The outer fabric is folded inward at the hem, but the final processing is done by hand.
It's voluminous and long, and stitching on the hem makes it look too heavy.
Since there is no lining on the entire surface, the treatment of the back is very important, but it is made carefully with piping.
It's a large portion, and it's a big one, but it would be nice if you could get it with confidence.
Private (Public) Collection
FOURTEEN DARTS TAPERED TROUSERS
material _ COTTON 46%, WOOL 38%, MOHAIR 16%
color_RED RUST
size _ 3,4,5 ※Sold out
Finally this.
Trousers with 14 darts for a more three-dimensional effect as well as three-dimensional cutting.
As for the pants, this time I wanted to make something without any tucks.
There are so many tucked pants these days.
So no tucking was an absolute requirement.
On top of that, I wanted to create pants that the world doesn't have.
Based on this idea, AUBETT created darts to create a three-dimensional effect.
However, Mr. Sugihara didn't seem to think about the number of darts so far, but in my mind, the darts have a long distance, and they go into the waist and hem, creating a three-dimensional "drape". The length and number of darts were necessary to create
So 8 on the waist. 6 in total, 3 on each hem. A trouser with a total of 14 darts was completed.
I don't think there are any men's, no, Han's pants with darts like this.
Flat waist with no waistband, thick belt loops, and four darts on the front.
Two on each back. Back darts are still other pants, aren't they?
A single beaded pocket and water buffalo ita buttons.
This thick loop is also characteristic.
This is the essence of the trouser way of thinking that Mr. Sugihara of AUBETT felt deeply.
This is water buffalo itaboon.
The front is a zipper front.
At the stage of making it, there was an idea to make it a button fly, and I had a feeling that I wanted to make it a button fly, but even though the fabric is a special fabric, it is cotton warp, so I wore it. First, there was the issue of excessive button hits, so we prioritized preventing the trousers from hitting hits.
The place is the place.
By the way, the zipper is YKK.
Not Excela.
To be honest, I really wanted to make Excella, but Excella couldn't make the color of the fastener tape to match the fabric.
That's why I chose YKK metal zippers, thinking that they would at least have quality that would give you peace of mind.
Don't worry, it won't break.
The front has one long dart on top of the center press.
There are two darts in the back.
side view.
It's hard to tell from the photo, but the hem is tightened by three darts.
There's a lot of variety.
This is the back side.
The hem is triple-rolled.
And it's a dart with a solid layer of fabric.
The back is the setting of the back of the first half.
ZZ strong twist, mohair is included, but there is very little fuzz and there is no scratchy feeling, but the knee does not easily come off even with heavy use. It has the same lining as the jacket and coat.
That's why it's best to wear them often.
And as for sizing, this is super irregular.
You can think of the coat as a general size development, but the jacket is size 3 and I think it can be worn by a lot of people.
However, in my assumption, it is best to have them wear a tailored collar cut-away front (but it will never be a simple oversize), and depending on the person, it is best to have them wear it and wash it repeatedly. I think that anyone can wear size 3 because it is draped.
However, I assume that the balance is the S size, so I think it would be good if you keep that in mind when you look at it. As for the pants, the size pitch is something that no other brand does.
Size 3 has a waist of 70cm, size 4 has a waist of 83cm, size 5 has a waist of 89cm.
This is a pitch that cannot be in the collection.
The setting of the thinness of the waist of size 3 was quite aggressive.
I also wear a waist size of 3, but for petite people, a belt is essential for any type of pants.
As long as it's one with belt loops.
The most common is that the waist is too big.
So, in order to prevent this from happening to petite people, we have designed a 70cm waist that would never be possible in a men's size.
But I think most people are size 4.
Also, size 3 or size 4 would be fine.
I like it.
Size 5 for those who are solid.
Even thin people wear size 4 and darts so that the fabric doesn't get bulky even if they squeeze the waist.
If it's pants with tucks, the tucks will be even more incomprehensible.
These 3 types of clothes.
By combining the original fabric woven by Kaneta Orimono with AUBETT's three-dimensional cutting, I think we were able to create clothes that stand out in terms of fabric and shape.
I'll introduce you again. Continue. .