This time, I'd like to introduce you to something amazing. I've been looking forward to this since I ordered it.
yes. A special piece of fabric at Kuzuri Keori. Three types of clothes made with Mr. Yamauchi of "Yamauchi" in December.
It is mohair with the name of the ranch "Ferreira Ranch". Ferreira Mohair. Using this as a raw material, Kuzuri Keori, who boasts a history of 110 years, woven a super heavy plain weave fabric. Actually, when I went to Kuzuri Keori to ask for the production of that fabric, I was shown the tremendous variation of Kuzuri's fabrics.
And one of them was the fabric that I thought from the bottom of my heart at that time, "I want to handle and introduce clothes made from this someday." I thought so, I took a picture at that time to keep a record of a certain fabric. A little time passed from there,,, Oh my God, I thought so at that time, that fabric. Appeared in this collection lineup of Araki Yuu. The fabric that doesn't pass. I couldn't think of anything other than having them make it.
The fabric... "Arashan Cashmere". "Cashmere" is said to be the highest quality material in the clothing industry. In that cashmere, undeniably the top, the king. That is "Arashan Cashmere". This is the dress.
Araki Yuu field jacket
face material _ ALASHANCASHMERE 100%
lining material_COTTON 100%
sleeve lining material _CUPRO 100%
button _ BRASS color _ NAVY × BLACK size _ 1,2
*Size 2 is sold out.
A field jacket made from 100% Arashan cashmere, the highest quality cashmere.
China is the country with the highest quality cashmere fiber in the world. Among them, especially "Inner Mongolia" is said to be so. Furthermore, there is an area called "Arashan district" in it. The Arashan district is located at a high altitude and is a semi-desert, with unimaginable temperature differences and extremely dry, harsh natural environments.
In such a natural environment, the cashmere goats that inhabit the area are covered with an unparalleled "extremely long and ultra-fine" hair to sustain and endure life. . Arashan cashmere is said to be the best in the world because there is proper data. I think cashmere had about 10 levels of quality? I think it was like that, but with that in mind, please see below.
<First-class cashmere> Fiber length: 34mm to 38mm Fineness: 14μ <Arashan cashmere> Fiber length: 40mm to 70mm Fineness: 13.2μ to 14μ There is an overwhelming difference compared to the quality of first-class cashmere. . Fineness is called "micron", which indicates the fineness of the fiber.
By the way, an adult human hair is said to be 80 microns. Arashan cashmere is even finer than the quality standard for first-class cashmere. However, the surprising thing is the length of the fiber. First-class cashmere and Arashan cashmere have a clear difference.
I wanted to introduce this transcendental world to everyone. However, since I saw it at Keori Kuzuri, I didn't expect it to come so quickly. Lol Well, I'm looking for it from the bottom of my heart, so that kind of opportunity is coming.
Using the Arashan cashmere raw material, in order to make the most of the "fiber length", it is spun with "worsted", which is Kuzuri Keori's specialty. The "worsted arashan cashmere" is "three-twisted" in both the warp and weft, creating a herringbone fabric woven at a fairly high density. Don't be shy about this.
In addition, Kuzuri Keori's characteristics, which I introduced when I worked with Mr. Yamauchi on Ferreira Mohair, continue to pursue "the goodness of the weave itself" in the design and weave structure of the fabric by operating the Schonherr loom.
That's why we don't add extra processing to the woven fabric. Wash it with fabric. By doing so, despite the dense fabric, the softness of the fibers and the swelling of the threads are brought out. And then, and... No way... After the clothes are finished, "product washing" at the atelier. lol this is crazy. The combination of fabric washing and product washing results in an incredible smoothness and softness. It's made to be something out of this world. Plus "mass". Usually, cashmere is said to be one of the characteristics of lightness. However, as mentioned above, this fabric has a "weight" that you can't feel anywhere else, because it is three-ply twisted in both warp and weft, and it is also designed with high density. Thanks to its unique weight, it creates an amazing drape. This outfit "breathtaking" in front of the mirror. I promise that the clothes will be so special.
The moment you actually wear it, the weight gently rides on your upper body. And the fabric touch that instinctively wants to always touch. If this fabric were 100% cotton, it would have a rough texture. Ferreira mohair used to have a mat-like texture, but I think this will impress everyone in the world with its overwhelming smoothness and bulge.
And when I asked Araki Yuu to make clothes using such fabrics, I thought a lot about which of the variations of Araki Yuu's clothes, which are by no means many, would be applied.
Well, actually, before I saw the collection samples, I had heard from the brand that they would use Arashan cashmere. Also, I knew I was going to Kuzuri-san, so I asked him, "I think I've seen something like Fukuda-kun." For the brand, Mr. Araki produces the samples in his atelier just like the products.
However, as a collection, we actually make samples of the new fabrics at an ultra-level of product quality. Under such circumstances, Araki Yuu thought of using the limited Arashan cashmere fabric to make just one sample. If you're in the clothing industry, you'll probably understand, but when we use special fabrics like this, most of them are used as coats.
However, what Araki himself had in his head was not. It was this Field Jacket. So, Field Jacket is a sample of Arashan cashmere as a brand. The moment I saw it, I couldn't believe my eyes at the maniacness of the clothes "Arashan cashmere x field jacket". Which niche industry are you targeting first? I thought.
It's impossible. That's what I feel. But, as soon as I put it on and looked at it, my heart couldn't escape from that thing called "Arashan cashmere x field jacket". This transcendent "clothes" that are not too common. Until now, our shop would have asked us to produce 4B Jerkin Jacket or MotorCycle Jacket.
But from the beginning, Araki Yuu's Araki-san didn't give up on the field jacket, and my heart trembled from the bottom of my heart. That's why I asked for the production of "Samples Bari", the samples that I actually saw and wore.
But since it's Araki Yuu's specification, it's as elaborate as the paneer. Cuff strap in extension of back sleeve of double sleeve. Normally, the sleeve strap is a separate part. Integrated with sleeves.
What's more, the sleeve straps come with a cover of the same fabric. By the way, the buttonhole is a handhole as usual. It's hand sewn.
The contrast between brass buttons and Arashan cashmere is also amazing.
By the way, the cuff buttons have leather power buttons. The choice of cupra lining on the sleeve lining is left to Mr. Araki.
You can't really tell from the picture, but the waist pocket is slightly curved except for the bottom.
The pleats in the center of the pocket are hand-stitched with silk thread.
Both ends of the pocket opening are similarly hand-stitched with silk thread.
By the way, the pocket opening of the chest flap pocket has the same specifications. Araki Yuu's clothes mainly use the same fabric as the outer material for the cover, but this time, the flap part is made of 100% cotton to give it firmness. By the way, the flap itself does not have stitches on the front side, and is sewn inside.
The back is fully lined with cotton.
The attachment of the lining and the processing of the outer cover are also neat. Amazing.
Araki Yuu is also uniquely designed with extra room to match the movement of the upper body of the lining. When stationary, the lining fits, and when in motion, the lining follows the movement of the body. The margins of the fabric for the lining are hand-sewn and partially suppressed. Well, I can't tell from the photos. If you see the real thing and wear it, I think you will be satisfied with this feeling of wearing.
Construction of hand-sewn holes and careful flap gussets.
No matter when I look at it, it has beautiful buttonholes.
The back of the collar is also wonderful. The collar is supported by stitches instead of having a moon waist or a base collar.
The price is price, but it's clothes of this level. I think the hurdles to get are quite high, but it's not just Arashan cashmere, but it's a garment that takes a lot of time and effort to produce one piece of Araki Yuu.
Kuzuri Keori's fabric quality that can be used for "parent and child three generations" and Araki Yuu's detailed and polite construction, resulting in a very durable construction. Like Ferreira mohair, I think this is a piece of clothing that you can keep and use for the rest of your life. Well, I think I have a preference for the shape of a field jacket. Lol Conversely, I wonder if I can find a field jacket with Arashan cashmere other than this. Lol I would be happy if people who like superhuman clothes could consider it.
By the way, the sizing is more comfortable than usual Araki Yuu. I always wear Araki Yuu in size 0, which is the smallest, but I thought 1 was the best, so I went with 1 and 2. And one more thing.
Araki Yuu Knicker Bockers face
material _ WOOL 95%, NYLON 5%
lining material_COTTON 100%
button _ BRASS color _ CHARCOAL size _ 1
Knicker Bockers, which is also my uniform, will appear again this time. Actually, 0 and 2 have already been delivered this season. But it sold out before I could introduce it on this blog. That's why I had already given up, but Araki Yuu stitched together the gaps in production and made me a size 1.
Five intucks at the hem and a brass adjuster.
Knickerbockers, a traditional Dutch gentleman favorite, and pants made with the essence of Araki Yuu. The front is not tucked, and the volume is gathered at once at the hem, and the hem suddenly becomes thinner. and short length.
It's a very complicated structure. I'm totally useless without these pants. That's why I keep wearing separate pants for spring/summer and autumn/winter. I would like to introduce it to everyone, and although the quantity is limited, I have been making Knicker Bockers for the past few seasons.
As mentioned above, front no tuck.
All button fly with brass buttons carved by Mr. Araki. Of course, the buttonhole is also handmade.
By the way, only the top button is, as usual, a rare three-hole button.
The back pocket is also curved.
An outline that narrows at once toward the hem from a thick thigh.
All volumes are aggregated with five large intacks. The hem belt is used to hold the tucks, and brass adjustment parts are also included. Well, as you can see by looking at the photos, the hem of this autumn/winter fabric is quite large, so the hem stands out. Lol lol It's a wool nylon fabric, but this one is made of a fabric that has a pretty twill structure with two warps and three wefts.
Well, the fabric is the fabric, so I couldn't help but laugh when it was completed and delivered. The volume of the fabric is too large, and the fabric of both straps cannot fit inside the brass adjuster. That's why Araki Yuu devised it and switched to cotton on one side. This is an irregular specification, but it is a rare specification because the fabric is just the fabric.
This hem has a lot of details. The hem band has stitches, but the stitches are not exposed on the continuous straps.
In addition, the back side has another fabric change and box pleats. Araki Yuu's Knicker Bockers are overwhelmingly number one in our store for pants with such a complicated structure, just the front and the hem.
Because this is fully lined. The outer material feels like heavy wool tweed. There is also a lot of bulging. On the back, cotton with full lining. It's dangerous, isn't it? It's perfect for staying comfortable in the cold winter.
Of course, the lining also has 5 tucks on the hem. It is a specification that imitates the outer material.
And the Knicker Boxers for autumn and winter have a gusset in the gap of the adjustment part. Make it difficult for cold wind to enter. The installation of this gusset is also a specification that I have never seen before. That's why it's a pair of pants with extremely complicated hemlines.
Well, it's not just the hem. These pants have a lot of character in terms of appearance and dimensions, so I think that only a limited number of people can wear them, but for those who like them, I think they're great.
Not only the table, but also the back processing is super polite. A lump of security.
The fabric is a gray color two-ply yarn with thick warp threads. The weft is the same thick brown Sanko. It is tightly woven. Soft enough, though. Like the Arashan cashmere field jacket, this product has been washed in the atelier, but you can expect the fabric to become more familiar with the lower body over time.
oh yeah. Also, as some of you may know, Paris Fashion Week starts this week. That's why I'm planning to go to Paris from Tuesday. This time, I will spend several days visiting the exhibition in Paris, and then in London. I have no plans to go to London for an exhibition, but I will go to Isabella Stefanelli's atelier.
At that time, I expect that Knicker Bockers for winter will play an active role in cold Europe. If you like both Knicker Bockers and Field Jacket, I would be happy if you could take a look.