Hello.
This is Noguchi from CASANOVA&CO.
Today, I'd like to continue discussing the event starting this weekend.
WONDER ROOM ESSE
collection 004 launch event
2026.10.24 (SAT) - 2026.11.01 (SUN)
Generally speaking, "tenjiku" is the fabric used for T-shirts, and "urake" is the fabric used for sweatshirts.
Since I discovered WR/ESSE and encountered Mr. Kakoi's fabrics, my perception of tenjiku and urake has been completely overturned.
Until then, I couldn't really see a big difference at a glance, but behind WR/ESSE lies an incredibly profound world.
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And that profound world gradually transmits itself through the physical sensation of wearing it against the skin.
I am aware that we live in an era where the value of things is judged very quickly.
Even so, I find more joy in things like WR/ESSE, whose value is conveyed little by little.
Hoping to provide an entry point to experience that joy and depth, I will introduce our current lineup, centered on the devoted craftsmanship behind WR/ESSE's fabrics.
Today is the "urake" (loopback) edition.
I will mainly focus on a fabric appearing for the first time.
fabric _
< PATINA >
First, here is PATINA.
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This is a series where, for the first time, WR/ESSE has applied a fading process to achieve the look of vintage sweatshirts.
However, this is WR/ESSE. It's worlds apart from the aging-process items often seen nowadays.
Mr. Kakoi studied hundreds of vintage sweatshirts before arriving at PATINA.
It wasn't just about the faded color; it was about how the fabric thinned out after half a century, the way the backing threads became matted and pill-like, or the inherent roughness that looks almost like the neps characteristic of American loopback fabric from that time.
A challenge to recreate the texture produced by the passage of time in old sweatshirts.
PATINA started from there.
This is the back of PATINA.
In this challenge, Mr. Kakoi's answer was to "change the very structure of the loopback fabric."
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Yes, as you guessed, this is where it gets highly technical. It’s a talk for fabric geeks.
I've always known it, but Mr. Kakoi is truly a wild person. Haha.
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My understanding is still a bit shallow and based on what I’ve heard, but I'll delve a little deeper into this idea of "changing the very structure of loopback."
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First of all, as a major premise, PATINA is a jacquard loopback fabric.
Among Mr. Kakoi's previous fabrics, FRIEND and FEATHER are also jacquard loopback fabrics.
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The defining feature of a jacquard machine is that it can create patterns.
The factory that actually makes PATINA apparently handles knitted fabrics with pattern designs for certain luxury fashion houses, so the quality is, of course, guaranteed. That is the kind of jacquard knitting machine used when creating such patterned fabrics.
In knitting, being able to create a pattern means that you can freely design how the threads cross.
Mr. Kakoi utilized this characteristic of jacquard to rewrite the structure of the loopback itself.
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The front and the back.
It looks normal from the front, but the back has a slightly matted appearance.
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This appearance was created by a special structure.
WR/ESSE called this structure a "skip pattern," but to put it simply, they "got creative with how the backing threads jump."
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I can't write in more detail than this here, but they rewrote the theory of how the threads jump and the route they take, ignoring the regularity of standard loopback fabric.
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Furthermore, by adding variation in tension as the threads jump, they expressed the texture and lightness of the sweatshirts of that era.
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In other words, they expressed the mood of that time through structure without compromising the quality of the raw materials or threads.
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But what’s even crazier is that PATINA was designed with processing in mind.
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In other words, the texture wasn't completed when it was knitted; it was controlled through the dyeing process to achieve the intended expression and feel against the skin.
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What's more, it seems the appearance changes depending on the type of dyeing process, so they balanced it to be compatible with everything, assuming various processes such as natural dyeing or dyeing that requires high-temperature pressing.
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Wait, is that even possible?
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It’s a world completely unknown to me. Haha.
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Rewriting a structure based on the premise of processing, or the very act of arriving at such an irregular design is baffling, but it’s wild that the expression born from that is near infinite.
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By the way, we used pigment dyeing for this PATINA; with pigment, the thickness feels slightly reduced and the lightness is accentuated.
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Mr. Kakoi said, "As a fabric merchant, I really put my all into the processing."
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I truly think so, too. It’s a different dimension from just trying to give individuality to existing fabrics through processing.
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WR/ESSE
[PATINA] The Line
color _ INK BLACK
WR/ESSE
[PATINA] The Flow
color _ INK BLACK
WR/ESSE
[PATINA] The Frame
color _ INK BLACK
Three styles from PATINA.
The crewneck "The Line," and two types of pants: "The Flow" and "The Frame."
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The Line is an all-rounder crewneck that appears in both tenjiku and urake as always.
Since PATINA is loopback, it’s technically a sweatshirt, but thanks to the combination of design and processing, it has a light, dry touch, making it a daily sweatshirt that’s easy to use year-round.
As always, there is a seam on the back. While the fading and fabric texture have a vintage mood, the form remains stoic.
I believe this balance is a hallmark of WR/ESSE.
This is The Flow.
We introduced The Flow in our store for 26SS using ECHO fabric; it’s a wide silhouette with no side seams.
We use the fabric horizontally based on the compatibility between the shape and the fabric, as well as how it moves.
It’s the collaborative result of the WR/ESSE team, who have a deep understanding of both fabric and shape.
Because the hem width of The Flow is wide, I think the PATINA fabric is particularly easy to use year-round.
The unique irregular loopback structure is also effective for keeping the fabric from sticking to the skin. With the faded appearance, it can be worn without feeling too heavy, either physically or visually.
Although PATINA is presented here for the autumn/winter season, I want you to consider it without being bound by the season.
The Frame is a new model this time.
It’s a more compact sweatpant compared to The Flow.
It has a balance similar to what’s called a jogger pant.
Personally, this balance fits my current mood quite well.
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The hips and thighs are relatively clean-cut.
To ensure freedom of movement, there is a gusseted crotch.
It has solid ribbing and a narrow hem width.
Not intended to bunch up over the ribs, but rather to fall straight down.
I apologize for the lack of photos showing it being worn, but for the first time in a while, I think these sweatpants are excellent.
Even the jogger style, which has a sporty image, doesn’t look like athletic wear because the fabric has been so thoroughly refined.
WR/ESSE
[WHALE] The Flow
color _ BLACK,DUSK
WR/ESSE
[WHALE] The Frame
color _ BLACK, DUSK
The Flow and The Frame are also available in our WHALE fabric.
fabric _
< WHALE >
WHALE: the ultimate loop-backed fabric, and the pride of WR/ESSE.
Actually, pants made with WHALE haven't appeared since the first season.
This will be long-awaited for WR/ESSE fans.
So, what exactly is WHALE? To put it simply, it is an ultra-dense yet soft-touch sweatshirt fabric made possible only by a specialized loop-wheel knitting machine that has undergone extensive modifications.
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All of WR/ESSE's loop-wheeled fabrics are produced by the craftsman who handles WHALE, and he creates these fabrics using only one particular loop-wheel machine (known as Machine No. 45) that he has continuously modified himself.
It seems that about ten years ago, there were still a few of these machines in operation, but now there is only this No. 45 machine left.
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All the others have broken down, or their parts have been sacrificed to keep this No. 45 machine running.
So, if this machine breaks, that's the end.
Even if there were another loop-wheel machine of the same model somewhere in the world, or if we asked the same craftsman to make the same modifications, WHALE could no longer be produced.
It is that kind of unprecedented, miraculous sweatshirt fabric.
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And here are the long-awaited pants made of WHALE.
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Please experience it while you still have the chance.
The Flow.
The shape and specifications are basically the same as the PATINA version, and the grain of the fabric runs horizontally here as well.
Since the fabric has significantly more meatiness and crispness than the PATINA or ECHO versions of The Flow, it creates a bolder silhouette.
Consequently, it has a certain weight, and it is so high-density that it stops the wind, making these the perfect sweatpants for winter.
WHALE is finished with product dyeing.
While they look remarkably clean for a product-dyed item when new, they begin to develop a richer character after about 50 washes.
I will likely be wearing a WHALE hoodie during the event that I’ve washed over 100 times, so please check that to see how it ages.
This is The Frame. It is a jogger style.
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It comes with ribbed cuffs, so it’s even better for winter.
It’s comfortable, washable, and warm—the kind of piece you’ll find yourself reaching for without thinking.
Additionally, as a personal highlight, since the atelier of Mr. 围 was turned into a sewing factory starting with 26SS to directly manage the quality control of WR/ESSE sewing, I feel that the look of WHALE has changed once again.
The sewing and finishing continue to evolve at WR/ESSE.
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fabric _
< NARWHAL >
And now, we have introduced a new loop-backed fabric that has evolved from WHALE.
NARWHAL.
NARWHAL is a type of whale that looks like it has a horn. It is clearly a successor to the WHALE lineage.
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So, what makes NARWHAL different from WHALE?
As mentioned earlier, the appeal of WHALE lies in its armor-like appearance, which comes from its overwhelming density, and its toughness.
It felt weighty when worn, and its appeal was in its absolute, reliable substance.
With NARWHAL, we have achieved a balance of lightness and airiness without compromising the appeal of its loop-wheeled construction.
NARWHAL is a loop-backed fabric made of 80% cotton and 20% silk.
This is the major difference from WHALE.
It seems that when multiple loop-wheel machines were still in operation, Mr. 围 was conducting various tests on loop-wheeling in parallel with the production of WHALE.
He experimented with animal hairs like cashmere and yak, changed the blends, and reduced the weight.
Through an incredibly high level of trial and error, he concluded that silk-blended material is what can combine firmness, substance, suitability for the current Japanese climate, and, above all, the visual appeal of loop-wheeling at a high level.
From there, he tested numerous silk percentage patterns, and arrived at the 80%/20% blend for NARWHAL.
He apparently experimented up to 50%/50%, but if the silk content is too high, it tends to lose its shape quickly. He found that the 80%/20% blend was optimal for retaining the character of the No. 45 machine’s loop-wheeling and the firm resilience of cotton.
Strictly speaking, the surface and back yarns are composed of cotton-silk yarn, while the middle yarn is made of 100% original cotton yarn; apparently, keeping the middle yarn cotton is what leads to the firm and solid texture.
As a result, this NARWHAL has an incredibly soft touch against the skin. Despite its supple substance, it is lightweight and comfortable as it allows temperature and humidity to escape without getting stuffy.
I personally love WHALE because I find the weight and even its "clumsiness" to have a certain romance to them, but I feel that NARWHAL has become more of an all-rounder.
WR/ESSE
[NARWHAL] The Line
color _ BLACK, SALMON
NARWHAL’s The Line is, in any case, an all-around crew-neck sweatshirt.
It has the casual nature of loop-wheeled fabric, with the subtle presence of silk that isn't overdone. Furthermore, it can be worn comfortably in any season except summer.
It is casual yet sophisticated, and easy to care for. It's perfect, right?
The SALMON color has ribs with a slight color contrast, which serves as a great accent.
Since NARWHAL is also finished with product dyeing, like WHALE, wouldn't it become more harmonious with repeated wear and washing?
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I will say it again and again: I have always been moved by the silhouette created by this center-back seam.
For those who are not good with sweatshirts because of their saggy silhouette, I believe this design will overturn your perception in nine out of ten cases.
The split sleeves typical of WR/ESSE.
The modern aesthetic, range of motion, and look from the side—we have reached an answer that is different from that of vintage pieces.
WR/ESSE
[NARWHAL] The Step
color _ BLACK, SALMON
NARWHAL’s pants are called The Step.
This is the shape we introduced in the 26SS season with PEBBLE, a revolutionary jersey fabric.
PEBBLE occupied a position like slacks, not like jersey fabric at all, but when it becomes NARWHAL, the expression changes again.
It is softer than PEBBLE and creates a beautiful drape.
One interesting point about WR/ESSE is that even with the same pattern, the look changes completely when the fabric changes.
NARWHAL was born as a derivative of WHALE, but I think The Step has a position that could not be expressed with WHALE.
I felt that the compatibility between this fabric and this shape was truly wonderful.
We tilted the side seams slightly forward and utilized those seams to construct the pockets.
This part is also very refined, and I think it is very beautifully handled for loop-backed fabric, without creating any clunky thickness despite this sewing specification.
The Step has a much stronger trouser-like character than sweatpants.
I believe these pants have a style that is distinct from The Flow or The Frame.
I think the ability to express such a wide variety of styles using only jersey and loop-backed fabrics is the greatness of WR/ESSE.
Although it is a brand with overwhelming strength in its fabrics, it never just becomes a "product"; it maintains expression and individuality as "clothing."
While that expression and individuality may not be noticeable at a glance, it is a quality beyond mere intuition that anyone can feel through the act of wearing them.
Today, we started with the loop-backed edition.
Tomorrow, the jersey edition awaits.
We hope you are looking forward to our event starting Saturday.