About SARTO COTTON DUNGAREE SKIPPER PULLOVER
Hello.
This is Noguchi from CASANOVA&CO.
We would like to thank all of you who came to see our new SLEEVELESS with OLDE HOMESTEADER the other day, and also to all of you who placed orders, even from those who live far away.
Furthermore, just the other day, we introduced some items that were picked up by our staff members Naka and Nakayama.
Thank you to everyone who viewed this as well.
This time, it's from Noguchi again.
We would like to introduce to you,
SARTO
Previously, //subjunction introduced a reversible coat with river stitching,
This is a brand that our store, CASANOVA & CO., will be carrying from this spring/summer season.
However, our lineup is extremely limited.
There are only two types available: the Spring/Summer river stitch coat that we have already introduced, and the shirt that we will introduce today.
Although the lineup is limited, the SARTO scent that emanates from these two types of clothing is very rich and unparalleled.
It's something very original that I've never felt anywhere other than SARTO.
And yet it's not like it's so unprecedented or avant-garde that it can't be accepted.
I think this balance of originality and not being excessive is wonderful.
When I saw this SARTO shirt and put it on,
"I've never seen anything like this before."
With that feeling,
"What a beautiful shape."
These feelings were balanced.
I believe that when we humans feel something, we make an evaluation based on what we have seen and experienced, in other words, our "experience."
It's delicious, it smells good, it's cool, it's cute, etc.
Beautiful, yes.
Even though it was my first time seeing a SARTO shirt, I felt an intense sense of beauty.
Even though it was my first time experiencing it, I was able to easily accept its beauty.
This is by no means an embellishment due to lack of experience,
There is no bonus for first-time viewers seeing it for the first time.
It was a very simple emotion: being moved by what was right in front of me.
"From experience, things like this are considered beautiful in the world."
It is a pure emotion that is not influenced by the scale that has been built up (or has been built up) by such experiences and environments.
However, there are very few things, not just clothing, that can bring about such simple and pure emotions.
That was the case at SARTO.
Sorry, this has become a long story.
This is the shirt.
SARTO
COTTON DUNGAREE SKIPPER PULLOVER
color _ INDIGO
Size: M, L
This is a pullover skipper shirt made from cotton dungaree fabric.
I'm only saying what the name says, but...
Generally, dungarees are made with white warp threads and colored weft threads (usually indigo).
If you are vaguely familiar with dungarees, you might have the impression that they are a relative of denim or chambray.
But this shirt,
It doesn't have the full-on work-like impression that you might associate with denim or chambray.
Rather, I feel a sense of elegance that cannot be hidden.
Even though it has been washed, it still has a subtle sheen, and it feels so dense that it makes a "pash" sound when you put it on.
If you see it in person, you will see that it is not just any other denim fabric.
Photo from the front.
Among the pullover skippers, this type has a deep neckline.
The embroidery is then applied around the shoulder line and on the cuffs.
The contrast between the finely pitched stitches of the sewing and the thick, rhythmic stitches of the embroidery.
I think it's an iconic embroidery without being too ethnic.
Although it is small, it has a sharp, angular collar.
I believe that the corners of a piece of clothing like this greatly affect the impression it gives.
That's why SARTO is so thorough in this regard.
A pentagonal-shaped piece of fabric attached to the underside in a way that allows a collar stay to be inserted.
I think I'll wear it without a collar and wash it out.
Whether you add it or not, the way your collar looks will be quite different with or without it.
The corners are very sharp.
The back of the collar also has stitching that resembles the base of the collar, called a tsukikoshi.
This gives the collar a more three-dimensional look.
This is what it looks like from the side.
The collar is narrow, and while it is rounded to fit snugly from the shoulders to the back, it stands upright and curves firmly at the neck.
Because it has such a large opening from the chest to the collar,
If left alone, your neck will tend to look loose.
I think that by arranging the collar in this way, it gives the shirt a tight fit while still maintaining a soft overall impression.
No matter which part you look at, a SARTO shirt is not a straightforward piece of clothing, but this is where the main focus as a piece of clothing comes in.
The originality can be felt from the "shape" of SARTO's clothes.
This is most evident in the arms.
Please see here for photos of the item being worn.
I think these two photos, especially from the shoulders to the cuffs, really capture the characteristics of SARTO's clothing making.
Let's unravel each one a little.
First, a photo from the front.
Can you see that there are wrinkles rising from a point about 2 cm inside the shoulder (near the neck)?
In the world of clothing, this is sometimes called "holding," and at that point a wrinkle-like flow of the fabric (drape) is created intentionally.
In the photo, it is a little hidden by the volume of the arm, but...
This creates a vertical flow to the wearer's upper body, making the body line appear sharper.
The greatest drape occurs from the shoulder to the inside of the wrist, twisting in a curve.
When viewed from the front, the outline of the garment is softly voluminous from the shoulder to just below the elbow, then converges towards the cuffs.
Very streamlined and powerful volume control with well-targeted draping that makes it look beautiful.
More photos from the side.
I'm not sure if it's correct to call it gathering, but if you look at the armhole you can see that the fabric on the sleeve side is being sewn while being shrunken.
This alone is quite impressive.
The sleeves smoothly emerge from between the front and back drapes.
Then, as it curves along the back of the upper arm, the volume that was sewn in tightly towards the elbow is released, creating a powerful arm.
This is the balance. It's so beautiful.
The sleeves, which reach their maximum volume around the elbow, are quite voluminous compared to a typical shirt, but combined with the curve of the upper arm, they give a sharp impression as they flare out forward.
I believe that the curve of the arm plays a very big role in creating the impression of this SARTO shirt, but I will explain this a little more later.
The impression from the side is stronger than when viewed from the front, yet it still has a sharp look, creating an exquisite balance.
The ultra-three-dimensional arm has a different impression when viewed from the front and the side due to the way the volume and fabric flows.
I thought this was really amazing.
Surely there must be many aspects that deviate from theory in creating this form.
I'm sure that's the case, as it has a freshness that you've never seen before and has been perfected in a way that is beautiful.
With that in mind, I looked at clothes from various angles,
I tried folding it in different ways,
Try walking around in it...
I felt a little uncomfortable.
Armhole.
As I mentioned before, the arm as a whole is quite voluminous, and I think you can tell just by looking at it.
Even so, the armholes look narrow for that length of arm. Or rather, the sides look hollowed out.
However, I don't feel that the armholes are too narrow, making it difficult to put my arms through when wearing it.
This means that there must be some way to make the armholes, which are not designed to be small, appear smaller (giving a sharper impression).
Speaking of which, here's a photo of it being worn from the side.
The shoulder area where the sleeves originate looked very sharp, and the upper arm was curved so that it swung forward.
Again, this armhole,
There must be something.
When I expand on that,
The body is left in a natural state so that there are no wrinkles.
The fabric in this underarm area has no room to escape and has become crushed.
The curve of the armhole is what makes the underarm area look flat.
Compared to normal armholes, this one has a steeper curve towards the armpit (bottom).
And the curve is long.
This unique armhole curve,
When you move or raise your arms, it pushes up your armpits to make the armholes look compact.
And when she stands upright with her arms down, she tucks in the bodice, causing the embracing drapes to stand up.
I think that is the case.
I have never seen an armhole with a curve that is so close to a circular arc before.
It was truly my first realization. My first impression.
But of course, it's not just that. I think the amount of tension in the shoulder area and the stitching in each part also play a role...
Please take another look at the photo.
No matter what angle you look at it from, it's very powerful and very beautiful.
One of the charms of SARTO is that its appearance changes depending on the angle.
It looks dignified from the front, but the power and flow of the sleeves when viewed from the side is truly amazing.
By the way, Noguchi, who is 178 cm and 60 kg, is wearing size M.
The overall balance is that the length is a little short and the width is wide.
The coexistence of volume and sharpness.
I feel that the way they manage to coexist is incredibly original and simply and truly beautiful.
This time, the focus is on the arms, but the balance with the flowing drape of the front body created by the wider body width is also perfect.
In this regard, the embroidery in the deep opening at the chest solidifies the starting point of the drape and also plays a role in making the collar area look neat.
The back of the dress has a total of six tucks, which is quite impressive in itself, but the contrast between the curved volume of the arms and the tucks at the cuffs is particularly beautiful.
With so much drape on the arms and the front and back of the body, the opening at the front provides some space for escape, which may be why it looks neat without being too feminine.
There are many options for men's clothing on the market when it comes to shirts, but SARTO's designs are unique and not found in ordinary shirts.
I'm sure that the experience you gain from trying on a SARTO shirt will add another dimension to your perception of what is "beautiful."
If you are interested, please come and experience it for yourself.
CASANOVA&CO Noguchi