Hello.
This is Noguchi from CASANOVA&CO.
Our store is currently hosting a LIMITED STORE with IRENISA.
Thank you to everyone who came to see the "special items" available only on the first and second days.
They have already disappeared from the store, but I won't say what those "special items" were here.
Because I think surprises that you can only discover by being there are wonderful.
Well, having said that, deliveries from various brands have been arriving one after another, and it's a contradiction that I'm introducing them here again today...
Now, to the main topic of today.
PETROSOLAUM.
A leather shoe brand that supports our feet and that we trust immensely.
Up until now, our store has introduced various styles of PETROSOLAUM leather shoes, including through order events.
Among them, a core offering was what is commonly known as the "03 LAST."
It's the most complex and three-dimensional last (shoe tree) in the brand, packed with specifications and techniques used in bespoke shoes.
I myself have been wearing the 03 LAST hidden derby model for several years, and it's simply excellent.
What's so good about it is the incredible comfort.
Even after hundreds of wears, every time I put them on, I still think, "Were they always this three-dimensional!?" The shoes push up my feet that much.
But five minutes later, my feet remember the shoes, and the shoes remember my feet, fitting snugly and perfectly.
That's the 03 LAST.
I truly think they are amazing shoes.
So I thought, "If I buy PETROSOLAUM again, it'll be the 03."
However, something else has overturned that belief.
Today, I'll introduce the series called "O-LAST" by the brand.
PETROSOLAUM can create various styles of shoes.
From authentic derby shoes to shoes made with translucent leather, they truly offer a wide variety that transcends genre boundaries.
It's to an extent that would be unthinkable for traditional leather shoe manufacturers in America or Europe.
Among PETROSOLAUM's offerings, the O-LAST stands out.
It boasts an incredibly original form and use of materials, yet it also possesses a very high quality as a tool.
I truly realized this after wearing them myself.
An incredible dark horse.
Please allow me to introduce 4 models from the O-LAST series.
PETROSOLAUM
Drawstring
material _ Horse oil shrink
color _ black
size _ 40,41,42
First up is this one.
A model named Drawstring.
It has a shape I've never seen in any shoes other than PETROSOLAUM, and it's apparently inspired by a drawstring pouch.
Two large drapes rise from near the toe and extend towards the opening.
This is what it looks like when the shoelaces are untied.
The shoelaces pass through the upper twice, so when the laces are tightened, the draped sections fold inward, creating a closed pleat structure.
So, from the opening, it looks like this.
The shape is unique and interesting, but structurally, it creates roundness on the instep of the foot, and the tightness of the shoelaces can significantly adjust the pressure on the instep, making it easy for people with high insteps to wear.
The leather is Horse oil shrink.
As the name suggests, it's horse leather.
However, this is also a very elaborate and specialized leather.
General shrink leather has a grain created by chemical processing or embossing after the tanning process, but this Horse oil shrink is the opposite.
The shrinking is done before the tanning process, meaning at the raw hide stage.
As a result, the grain is deeper than with general shrink processing, and the grain doesn't stretch and become flat even after the shoe is lasted into shape.
In other words, it can maintain a uniform and strong grain even when in the state of a shoe.
Furthermore, this Horse oil shrink is said to be shrunk whole, without cutting a single raw hide.
Horse and cow leather are typically cut in half down the back before shrinking and tanning because of their large size, but a uniform and beautiful grain is naturally achieved by not cutting it.
That's why PETROSOLAUM selects smaller raw hides and shrinks and tans them whole.
Furthermore, this Horse oil shrink is from Shinki Hikaku, the same tannery that produces PETROSOLAUM's iconic Cordovan butt leather, making it pit-tanned horse leather.
The general method for efficient short-time tanning involves putting hides and tanning agents into a barrel-like drum and rotating it, but pit tanning, which allows the tannin to soak in slowly, significantly changes the texture of the leather.
In other words, it takes time, the process is troublesome, and it's generally very difficult, but PETROSOLAUM controls the shrinking and tanning processes in this way to create Horse oil shrink.
Considering that, let's look again.
The powerful grain looks almost like elephant leather.
It has an expression that is not too wild, but also dignified.
The leather around the outsole, where it tends to stretch due to lasting, also has a very strong grain.
As I mentioned earlier, despite being horse leather, it has the powerful appearance of exotic leather.
And the price is considerably lower than exotic leather, so I think it's a great choice for those who like this texture.
PETROSOLAUM
Drawstring
material _ Ostrich
color _ black
size _ 40,41,42
※Size 41 is sold out.
For those seeking something more exotic, here it is.
Ostrich.
That's right, ostrich.
Ostrich is characterized by protrusions called quill marks.
These are originally ostrich feather follicles, but they are not present throughout the entire ostrich leather.
At PETROSOLAUM, for the Drawstring's one-piece (single leather) construction, the leather is used so that the leather quality transitions to a zone without quill marks from the outer ankle to the heel part.
It's like this.
Ostrich is supple but also a very tough leather, making it perfect for wearing as shoes frequently.
I took this photo hoping it would convey how it looks when worn, but it's not very clear, is it? (laughs)
In any case, these are shoes where originality in form, quality of leather, and comfort are all matched at a high level.
I'll discuss comfort and sizing later, so please make an effort to read everything. (laughs)
PETROSOLAUM
Tyrolean
material _ Horse×Horse reverse
color _ black
size _ 40,41,42
Next up is this model, the Tyrolean.
Originally, Tyrolean shoes are authentic, or rather, a classic shoe shape, but this one also carries the PETROSOLAUM mood.
The leather is a combination that uses both the face and reverse side of horse leather.
The instep and the piping-like part of the opening are the face, and everything else is the reverse.
When new, it's smooth, but as you wear it, it transforms in a good way.
Both Drawstring and Tyrolean have Vibram outsoles.
(The photo shows the Drawstring with Horse oil shrink. I only took a photo of the sole with this one. My apologies.)
This Vibram, of course, is not slippery at all.
I ran suddenly in a subway station on a rainy day and didn't slip at all.
Leather soles have their merits, but it's good to have a pair of shoes like this that offer such a sense of security.
The toe is rounded and plump, unlike the bulging shape of the Drawstring.
However, the white moccasin stitching nicely sharpens the silhouette, so it doesn't feel clunky.
Tight up to the most stressed part.
It clearly looks robustly made.
And this Tyrolean also has another material.
PETROSOLAUM
Tyrolean
material _ Crocodile×Horse reverse
color _ black
size _ 40
A combination with crocodile.
I've never seen shoes made with crocodile like this before.
It properly uses parts of the crocodile where the scales are evenly shaped.
As you move away from the belly part of the crocodile, the size of the scales becomes smaller and their shape irregular, which is proof that the most expensive part of the crocodile leather is luxuriously used.
That alone is wonderful, but for the croc Tyrolean specifically, the moccasin stitching is done by hand by designer Ogino or his brother Ryo.
Given the material, no mistakes are allowed.
So, the designer himself is responsible for creating these shoes.
Furthermore, this part here.
The crocodile tape (as I call it) on the opening is incredible.
I don't think anyone else would use this much crocodile.
The reason for that is, first, the length.
As shown in the photo, it's sewn around the entire opening, so it requires approximately 30cm of tape in a straight line.
Moreover, the position from which the leather is cut is aligned on both the left and right shoes so that the pattern changes uniformly from the inner ankle to the outer side.
While it might not be a huge cost for large animals like cows or horses, it's easy to imagine that using this tape alone for crocodile leather would incur a substantial cost.
And besides the length, the thinness is also an issue.
To make it into a tape and sew it to the opening, it needs to be skived thinly to reduce thickness, but this is also where crocodile as a material presents difficulties.
That is, the scales, which are characteristic of crocodile, cause uneven thickness in the leather surface, and if you try to skive it thinly, it can easily tear.
Furthermore, because the scale pattern also changes gradually, the skiving method must be controlled accordingly.
Of course, if a hole opens, that crocodile leather cannot be used.
Even just skiving the leather is an incredibly delicate task.
Therefore, similar to the moccasin stitching, this crocodile tape is also finished by Ogino's hands.
However, Ogino says that even with all that effort, this particular pair of shoes wouldn't be complete without this crocodile tape.
The crocodile covering the instep, Ogino's hand-stitched white moccasin seam, and the crocodile tape.
I think it's a perfectly calculated balance, exactly where it needs to be.
Also, it was difficult to convey the Tyrolean in photos, so I gave up, but it's incredibly easy to put on and take off in one swift motion.
While boasting an exceptional level of completeness as a shoe, I also believe it's a product with a superior design.
As seen in the photo, there are two eyelets.
Untie the bow and pull up the shoelace that is horizontal beneath the knot, and the laces loosen instantly, the opening widens, and your foot slides out easily.
So, you don't need a shoehorn, and when you're seated at a low table in an izakaya, you can smoothly drink beer and go to the restroom.
In my case, when I go to exhibitions, I sometimes change my pants about 100 times in one day, so shoes that take a long time to put on are a matter of life and death.
So, these Tyrolean shoes are my recent companion.
Since we're on the topic, please take a look at my companion.
The well-oiled Horse reverse is roughly fuzzy and starting to develop an uneven luster.
The crocodile hasn't shown any significant changes yet.
Perhaps only the toe area has started to collapse slightly from riding a bicycle.
Like this.
But since crocodile itself is super powerful, I think it looks cooler worn this roughly.
That's why I don't brush the Horse reverse part, but I think it would look neat if you did it properly.
But I won't.
The Vibram sole mentioned earlier also has excellent flexibility.
Honestly, before I started wearing them, I had some concerns about this flexibility.
This is because, in my experience, shoes with overly soft outsoles would cause arch pain after long walks.
So, I thought that while softness is good, if there isn't proper rebound or kickback, it would put a strain on my feet.
...It was an unfounded fear.
I was truly impressed, as expected from PETROSOLAUM.
I can walk about 30,000 steps in a day without any pain or fatigue.
If anything, only for about the first week of wearing them, the hardness of the tape around the opening rubbed against my ankle and caused a little pain.
Now they've become invincible shoes.
(Sorry the mirror selfie isn't a great photo...)
For those who have worn PETROSOLAUM's 03 LAST or authentic European leather shoes until now, the O-LAST might seem like a rather challenging option.
However, I believe it will offer a completely different kind of satisfaction from such leather shoes, in a completely different position.
You'll probably be surprised the moment you put your foot in.
Because they are incredibly soft and plush.
If you're interested, please give them a try.
Finally, a quick note on sizing.
I wear a 40H in PETROSOLAUM's 01 LAST and a 40 in the 03 LAST, and the 03 LAST 40 is a very snug fit.
So, for the O-LAST, a 41 is just right.
Therefore, consider it to be a slightly smaller make, and going up half a size from your usual size would be best.
If you're interested, please feel free to contact us with your actual foot measurements and we'll guide you in more detail.
See you.